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#832348 18/10/25 06:24 PM
Joined: May 2025
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Whizjet Offline OP
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
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Me again.
So, there I was using a trip to Sainsburys as an excuse to drive the Mog with the hood & sidescreens up - very impressed, very quiet, remarkably warm.
drive
Filled up with petrol, twisted the key - CLICK - dead battery.
banghead
I had never looked to find the battery and was, erm, impressed at the faff it is to get to it.
By simply incredible good luck, an extremely nice man admiring the Mog understood the issue and just happened to have a Halfords digital jump start thing - size of a packet of Hamlet. But getting to the battery.
Eeeeek.
crazy2
And of course I didn't have a screwdriver to undo the toolkit panel. Amazingly, another good samaritan appeared who DID - and that got the wooden panel under the toolkit off - only to discover that doesn't actually let you access the battery terminals.
And the screwdriver couldn't quite get at the screws in the metal access plate - not enough room behind the seat . . .
crazy2
Samaritan #2 just happened to have a ratchet and phillips adapter - so eventually access was gained, the Halfords digital charger applied - nothing!
Samaritan No 1 also just happened to have a truck jump starter joy
And once THAT was connected, deep joy, the motor burst back into life - but stopped as soon as the charger was disconnected.
I discovered a bit more faith in humanity, because this chap then insisted I drive home with his charger connected and he'd pick it up tomorrow.
happy3

So just got back, have put the CTEK on charge, but I imagine the battery is probably screwed - it's probably the original and has therefore done OK to get to 11 years.
Thanks for reading thus far.
The exam question, please, is whether this is something I could reasonably do myself, or does it need to go into the dealer? I'm not sure if the battery can even be replaced without accessing from underneath on a ramp, and I'm certainly not sure how many Morgan Roadsters the local Battery company will have done.
Exam question 2 - is there a particular battery you'd recommend?
Exam question 3 - does depowering the Roadster cause any electronic issues?
I need a beer, in fact I need 3 cheers


Ben

2014 Roadster 3.7
2016 Audi S-Line Black Edition TT
2018 Mini Cooper (herself's)
Whizjet #832350 18/10/25 06:44 PM
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 487
Just barreling along
Needs to Get Out More!
Online Content
Just barreling along
Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 487
1, easy to do yourself, take out the parcel tray for better visibility, the battery will fit through the access plate hole with the seat pulled fully forward, disconnect the earth first
2, can't remember the ref Richard V6 will be along soon...
3, dropping the power doesn't cause issues with the 3.7


Jon M
1 member likes this: Whizjet
Whizjet #832351 18/10/25 06:49 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 37,403
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Tricky Dicky
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Tricky Dicky
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As Jon says, I replaced my Plus 8 one (after 11 years) and it's accessible from the top if you are reasonably agile, I'm 74..

I replaced like for like @ 11 years it owed me nothing and never saw a battery charger but I use it throughout the year.

The radio memory will go as will the temporary fine mixture adjustments for the ECU but a few miles down the road and it will relearn.r [Linked Image]

This was mine 68 quid delivered.


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Con Green +8 prev





1 member likes this: Whizjet
Whizjet #832356 18/10/25 08:11 PM
Joined: Jun 2015
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Talk Morgan Expert
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There was no need to faff about getting to the battery terminals to apply a jump start. Simply open the bonnet and you will see the heavy current cable connected to the starter solenoid, readily accessible. An earth connection to the chassis or engine block and you are in business.
My plus 4 has been running quite happily on a replacement Halfords 075 battery for the past 7 years.


Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
1 member likes this: Whizjet
Whizjet #832359 18/10/25 08:19 PM
Joined: Jan 2023
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S
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S
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All true advice. battery designation is 075 with right facing + terminal.
Removal.... remove parcel shelf first then access panel on bulkhead. Neg lead off and tuck away then + lead. Lift and tip battery out through access panel.

Get battery from Tayna batteries on line, next day delivery. Yuasa good make , get the highest amp hour version you can... better cold cranking.

1 member likes this: Whizjet
Whizjet #832364 18/10/25 10:00 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
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Needs to Get Out More!
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This is the 60 amp hour battery for your car Ben which I have bookmarked for mine when needed. I particularly recommend south Korean brand Hankook having used them in all my cars and also a half dozen large capacity ones in a narrowboat. I've never been let down or had to change one yet and the price is rarely beaten.

Battery Megastore seem to be cheaper than Tanya when delivery included and they offer price matching anyway. If the battery is 11 years old it will be screwed anyway, don't waste time just replace, they are consumables.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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Whizjet #832365 18/10/25 10:09 PM
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 472
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Learner Plates Off!
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That the engine cut as soon as you disconnected the charger could indicate a faulty alternator. Once the engine is running the alternator should provide enough charge to keep it going. I presume the cat started OK for your trip to Sainsburys. Put the battery on charge overnight and try to start the engine in the morning. If it starts OK check the battery voltage with the engine running about 1500 rpm, and again with the engine off. The battery volts with the engine running should be about 14 volts and 12 when not being charged.


1956 Plus 4 4 seater
3 members like this: Whizjet, Burgundymog, Redfate
Whizjet #832391 19/10/25 11:01 AM
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S
Has a lot to Say!
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S
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Checking alternator/battery with engine running.... multi meter set to volts (20v) if it has settings directly to the battery terminals. If you get dodgy readings check alternator connections, engine earth and battery connections. Round post batteries; often when they have been disconnected a few times the clamps close up and even though you think they are tight they are not. loosen the clamp bolt and prise open the clamp lugs then refit the clamp and give it a gentle tap down to seat it on the post.... now tighten normally. Use Vasaline/petroleum jelly to maintain a corrosion free terminal!

Last edited by sewin; 19/10/25 11:02 AM. Reason: needed to add information
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Whizjet #832395 19/10/25 12:12 PM
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Whizjet Offline OP
Just Getting Started
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Dear Everyone,
Many thanks for all the advice, much appreciated.
I did wonder myself about the alternator output, though I'd have thought that would have resulted in a warning light. Anyway, I left it on a CITEK trickle charge overnight and it showed green on the meter this morning - which was worrying.
On trying to start the thing, however, it just 'clicked' and out went all the lights, so I'm pretty sure it must be the battery.
I'm going to have a try at removing the existing battery this afternoon - thank you all very much for the input - I wasn't too impressed with the nature of the tiny screws holding in either the parcel shelf or the tool shelf, had anyone thought up some more efficient method? Dzus fasteners or similar?


Ben

2014 Roadster 3.7
2016 Audi S-Line Black Edition TT
2018 Mini Cooper (herself's)
Whizjet #832396 19/10/25 12:18 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
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Roadster Guru
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My experience of 'todays' batteries is that they fail without warning. They can be conditioned to death for years, and I got 13 years out of my Roadster original battery, before it went pop without warning. It went from normal to dead just like that.

So don't suspect the alternator until you fit a new battery, then see what happens.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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