Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Temu Brake Bleeding Tools & Equipment Review

Temu pressure bleeder kit arrived today Dave. Was expecting several various size m/cylinder caps but only one included. Checked and it does fit on reservoir although not convinced I could screw it fully home as similar on my Roadster has heat proof material wrapped around it due to exhaust manifold proximity. This would easily be removed though as just secured by cable tie. My question therefore is did you dismiss the included plastic cap as thread incorrect or did not provide airtight fit? Also where did you get alternate cap from, which presumably didn't have matching q/r male fitting, hence the short rubber hose adaptor?

Hi Richard,

Some of the Temu pump up bleeder kits do come with a range of caps.



However, I learnt this after the event, but the one supplied cap was at least the correct size so no big deal right?

Wrong, sadly despite the cap being the correct size it arrived with a broken fitting



However, I could see the rest of the kit was well made, so I perservered seeing my small misfortune simply as an opportunity to upgrade to a proper metal cap.

Here's the one I went with:




Unfortunately the male quick release fitting on my new metal cap was a different size to the pressure bleeder, but I soon fixed that by removing the original male fitting from the broken plastic cap fitting and connecting it to my new metal cap using a short length of heater hose and two Jubilee clips.



Even if the fitting on the plastic cap hadn't broken in transit, I still would have invested in the metal cap becase it's a far superior thing in every way. The proper metal thread engages extremly well on the resevoir and the cap itself seals perfectly. As a good seal at the master cylinder is everything when pressure bleeding, I strongly recomend upgrading your Temu pump up pressure bleeder kit by buying the metal cap as I did.

Be aware most metal cap listings on Temu are for a full set of caps in lots of different sizes, these kits are a little costly especcially as you only really need a 43mm ID cap, fortunatly I found a seller who listed all sizes who also allows you to buy just one metal cap in the size you need.

I think I paid £6.00 delivered for my 43mm ID metal cap, and it was worth every penny

Many thanks Dave - that explains a lot

Keep the faith Richard, once you've perfected your pump up pressure bleeder kit, I promise you'll never look back.

I do also higly recommend the Temu sourced special pass through bleed spanners you see me using in my videos, if you only buy one, get an 8mm for the rear wheel cylinder bleed nipples as the offset head provides perfect clearance to the drum

Dave.

Richard, on the cap size there are two different thread types at 43mm ID One appears to fit but pop's off when you try and get a seal. They are both supplied in the Gunson eesy-bleed kit. The first time I used that kit I picked the wrong one assuming they were both identical and it was a nightmare as it wouldn't seal and that's where the fluid will leak from if it can't seal, and it will just empty out the bleed kit reservoir from there.
I went and bought the correct Ford item and fitted the coupling into that and all worked well afterwards.
I was having a clear out one day and was just about to throw the caps from the eez-bleed out and just on a whim I thought i'd try the other cap and it fitted and tightened perfectly. I Checked the two against each other and they had different thread styles. I used the Gunson kit for years after that and it worked fine but I got sick of using a spare wheel to provide pressure so up graded to a self pressurised system which I can safely store the fluid in either ready for use or if any is left. over I use flare spanners for the bleed nipples, They are like ring spanners with a cutout to allow it to pass over the attached bleed pipe and I find them simple to use. If you buy a set they also are designed for brake lines and flexi hoses.Dave is absolutely right in that once you perfect your system you will never go back to the two man or one-way valve methods of bleeding. You can see and control everything you are doing and it's easy to do a whole system flush as well. You will use about £5 worth of brake fluid on the Mog to achieve that and at a garage it'll be £40 +.

Easy to do clutches as well but use about 10-15 Psi. Some Morgans have concentric slave cylinders and its best to reverse bleed these as pressure bleeding can damage the bellows and that's a gearbox out job.

Reverse bleeding: The syringe that dave shows sucking fluid out ( the scary nurse ) is the type to go for as the couplings are metal and secure. First suck out the dirty fluid from the clutch reservoir, You can't really over empty it, Then with clean fluid in the syringe and the connecting tube primed connect it to the external bleed nipple and holding the syringe and tube vertically allow any trapped air in the bleed line to bleed up and away from nipple. once happy crack open the nipple and slowly push fluid into the clutch system. You will see it start to fill the reservoir, this initial fill will flush the dirty fluid from the slave and associated pipes so suck that out of the reservoir and push more fluid into the system and on the second fill it's usually new clean fluid that appears in the reservoir. when satisfied and with the reservoir at the correct level tighten the bleed nipple and remove the filling syringe. Job done!

I just added this here for anyone reading this who has a concentric clutch slave cylinder and might find this info useful.

Thanks for heads up on cap threads sewin

My Roadster has concentric clutch slave but to my knowledge no external bleed nipple. Here is image loooking back down left hand side of engine towards bulkhead.



You can see coupling of flex pipe from clutch master cylinder to short solid pipe which disappears into bell housing. Not very accessible anyway. So far have just sucked out fluid from reservoir and replaced.

Richard, typically on a concentric slave cylinder system the bleed nipple will be found on the end of a length of flexi hose (possibly braided), a remote bleed nipple if you like, its likely tucked to be away so may be somewhat hidden at first glace.


On a seperate note, Temu just offered me the better kit that comes with four different sized caps for an astonishing £9.62



I don't need another one, but it does prove just how cheap you can buy the kit for if you play the Temu gameification app at its own game

Richard. I have the Ford MT-75 gearbox and my flexi feed pipe from the master cylinder and bleed nipple sit at the rear of the bell housing on the top just below the fire wall so easy to access. It's a modified Ford slave and they? Morgan have fitted a bleed tube to run inparrallel with the hydraulic line so they sit together at the top of the bell housing. Most later cars have a different bleed system altogether when a concentric slave is used. this is often directly associated with the main line into the bell housing, might be under a rubber blanking cover at that point or may be even on the other side of the car from that entrance point of the main feed line. It mainly just looks like a stubby plastic pipe and will have a small metal wire clip across the pipe. This may need to be fully removed or pulled back to a stop position where it remains in place. You can then pull the end of the pipe outwards just one position, about 1/4" and that opens the bleed tube.

I think you have the Ford MT-82 transmission as fitted to the Land Rover Tdci engines. As you also have a Ford engine I can't see that it wouldn't be standard but then again! I have the technical paperwork from my LR days so I'll see what I can find out for you. Often both feed and bleed are under a cover that needs popping of for access.

I have to say, That although mine is accessible I tend to keep an eye on the colour of the fluid and suck it out as you describe as in my case unscrewing the bleed nopple just might fracture the bleed pipe within the G/box Then it's an engine and G/box out job!

Thanks for replies but I haven't found any signs of clutch bleed nipple on 3.7 Roadster and neither has anyone else to my knowledge, although would be pleased to be proved wrong. No hint of it in parts manual either. Will have a closer look when next have it on the ramp.

No need Richard. I think your roadster has the 2009-25 Mustang set up. Your'e right there is no bleed facility. You can check as it will have a separate reservoir ie. not a combined brake master cylinder. If fitting a new slave cylinder.... perish the thought! You would need to bench bleed the slave prior to fitting in the bell housing The only bleed option you have is to remove as much fluid from the reservoir as you can and fill with clean fluid then pumping the clutch pedal several times until on obsevation no air is exiting the reservoir which will show as bubbles coming through the brake fluid. Adjust to correct level and that's it. If you repeat this process a couple of times it will have some flushing effect if fluid is dirty.
Designed for the mustang it is believed the clutch components would need replacement prior to slave failure and should be changed when clutch is changed although it does say about using the slave again on clutch service..... perhaps that is for an early clutch failure scenario. Hope that helps with the head scratching.Oh! nearly forgot, The slave unlike the master cylinder will not produce the dirt that the master will as its a bellows system with no internal friction.