Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) EZ Power steering disaster, car almost undriveable

Good afternoon all,

I have recently had EZ electric power steering fitted to my 2013 Plus 4 and I am devastated that it has totally ruined the car, rendering it almost undriveable. The issue is that there's no self centering on the steering any more, I could be travelling round a roundabout and if I take my hands off the wheel it just keeps going round and round. To drive on the road is a zig zag path as there is no natural stability and pulling out of a T junction is positively dangerous except at low speed as you can easily run into the oncoming traffic; before the power steering if I released the wheel as in any other car I've driven it will straighten up naturally due to the self centering.

The dealer who fitted it says that's how it should be, but I wont be driving it so I currently feel like I've lost my car.

Has anyone else had a better experience?

That doesn't sound at all right, are you sure the tracking is correct?

The dealer is talking crap. I'd call EZ direct. Normally it needs to be set up so it centres. It sounds like the system is hunting & can't find the mid point.

Thats's a good call. I fitted new TRE's on the MG this year, and although I did the 'counting threads' thing they were well out and the steering was haywire, and cornering was a nightmare with similar lack of centralising.

Sorry to hear that. I had the hydraulic system fitted to my Roadster and couldn't be more pleased. Fitting a one inch smaller steering wheel has made the car fantastic to drive.

EZ are a well respected brand, I thought their system was adjustable for speed / load assistance - perhaps it needs calibrating

The ez system is brilliant and was originally fitted to Morgan Plus 4s, I believe BurgundyMog has this on his car, before Morgan replaced it with their own version to save money and this was so bad they stopped offering it as an option. Sounds very much that this is an installation issue rather than a problem with the system.

I had the same thing on my roadster in 2005 when my local dealer fitted it. No centering at all. I returned it to them. They found it was a mechanical problem, something fouling catching. They put it right and it was fine after that. Your dealer definitely in the wrong.
Nick

I thought the EZ system has an adjustment knob, you could try turning it down to no assistance and see what happens. I also thought it was speed sensitive, can you feel any difference once you get over the speed it is supposed to operate?

I have it on my +4 it works perfectly I think it runs through an ECU as it adjusts to the speed. If you disconnect the big plug under the dash it reverts to non power steering.

I tested a +4 with the EZ system (including the adjustment knob to increase/decrease the amount assistance) and it definitely had self-centering. Clearly, something is wrong, either with the EZ system or the installation/setup.

I have had it on my 2005 Roadster for well over a year and it's good. Lightens the load at slow speeds (like when parking or at the petrol station) and seems to disappear at higher speeds. It was installed in my garage, by myself and my friends. Can't rightfully say, but yours may be an installation problem.

Cheers,
Mark

There is a knob you can turn, but there’s almost no detectable difference wherever it is set. The thing that makes it so hard to drive is the lack of self centrering. Wherever you put the steering wheel it stays where it is, hands off.

When you swith on the ignition can you turn the steering wheel with one finger ?

I am living in Switzerland and I need to proove to our MOT, that EZ power steering was an option for Plus 4, year 20025. Somebody can provide to me a copy from such an official approval from Morgan Company or a digital copy of a factory flyer with mentioned EZ or a price list?
Ma adress: guggenheim@textundko.ch

Many thanks for your help

Do you mean a trad from 2005?

The first time MMC fitted EZ power steering to +4 was 2013 I have the first car fitted i.e. the press car.

You could try to contact EZ directly for the info, eg CE marking certificate / TUV approval

Just bear in mind that they had a big fall out with the Factory over copying the EZ system without permission & outsourcing supply to others

Hi Nmorgan , has your problem been resolved yet ? I've already installed 12 and had the same problem before, but after contacting EZ , it was resolved. You can call me about it if you d like.

Regards Stefan 0032486105676

+4
+8
ARP4
PlusFour

Do you know when MMC dropped offering EZ power steering system Keith and their source of replacement. I know power steering was an option on Roadster's until 2018 when 5 link rear suspension was introduced. I thought the type approval document for this change dated December 2017, may have offered some insight on sterring assistance but it simply includes the following under steering section:

7.2.2.1. A brief description of the electrical/electronic components (if any): None
7.2.3. Method of assistance (if any): None

The matching parts book offers no detail on power steering fitment either

It was the Vauxhall astral system. Contact the original company they were very helpful to me, even if mmc stiffed them

Many thanks John

I thought on Vauxhalls the motor was down on the actual rack, rather than the column ?

Looked it up Jon and early Astra's had hydraulic rack PAS, engine then electric driven before adopting column electric. Multiple suppliers of this later type as well.

Sorry Richard I have no idea only that mine was the press car and then used by one of Charles daughters until he was deposed.

Thanks Keith. A little more info on the EPAS system factory fit on later 3.7 Roadsters, presumably Vauxhall derived and optional on Plus 4 of same era.

The electrical connections are relatively simple just four wires on matching connector. Main direct battery power via 40 amp fuse. Ignition switched activation via engine fuse 18. BCU supplied speed signal decoded from CANBUS, and ground. Interesting that its speed sensitive. I recall others complaning their's wasn't but maybe true of earlier versions . Below generic layout of column electric assist steering.

Mine's not speed sensitive Richard

I queried this with the Factory when it went in for some warranty remedial work (not steering related) and Mark B confirmed MMC's system is not speed sensitive or adjustable for level of assistance, but that the previous 'bought in system' was, via a propshaft sensor

I assume if we took off some of the footwell trim there may be a CE mark / maker label on the motor ?

Yep, there's some labels on the motor...wish I'd taken a close up during build

Same as my S1 Roadster. I found the issue was a cable coming out of the plug & socket on a box on the passenger side under the dash. It failed sometimes.
Here is mine

Thanks for heads up Jon. I did wonder despite our Roadsters being built only months apart if your PAS was the same as mine since I believe you fitted switch to interrupt EPAS control feed. When I tried the same by pulling control fuse the car was akin to my 60 year old Land Rover at manouvering speed and heavier throughout speeds up to 60+ mph. It was so uncomfortable to drive I put fuse back in after five miles.

I assumed the EPAS was speed sensitive since the four pin connector includes a feed from the BCU on a yellow/pink cable. This is commonly used to carry VSS speed signal and could be little else. The wiring schematic was drawn by MMC in late 2013 though so could have benefitted an earlier EPAS - EZ PAS maybe

Mine is speed sensitive.

Some possibly helpful info here albeit AI generated:

Here is the process for centering the EZ power steering system:

1. Initial Pre-Alignment
Verify Rack Centering: Before finalizing the connection, ensure your steering rack is physically centered (even spacing on both sides) and the front wheels are pointing straight ahead.
Mechanical Alignment: Ensure the steering column is aligned precisely straight and mounted tension-free. Binding due to misalignment is a common cause of poor self-centering.
Position the Shaft: When connecting the output tube to the EZ unit, ensure the steering shaft is properly centered in the bulkhead.

2. Physical Centering (After Installation) If the steering wheel is off-center after the first test drive, do not attempt to fix it solely by adjusting the alignment on the rack if the rack itself is not in the middle of its travel.
Disconnect and Realign: Disconnect the U-joint/coupler between the steering column and the rack, straighten the steering wheel, ensure the rack is centered, and re-connect the shaft.
Adjust Tie Rods: If the rack is centered but the wheel is crooked, make small, equal adjustments to the left and right tie rod ends to straighten the steering wheel.

3. Electronic/System Centering Zero-Position Check:
Turn the key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine) to allow the EZ unit to initialize. The system should operate smoothly.
Test Drive: Take the car for a test drive, checking that the steering returns to the center on its own.
Adjust Sensitivity: If the car pulls or does not center correctly, the assist level might be too high. Use the potentiometer to reduce assistance at road speeds (the system is often designed to have strong assistance only at parking speeds).

4. Troubleshooting
Binding Check: If the steering does not return to center, check that the steering column U-joints are not binding and that the column is not under axial tension.
Recheck Phasing: If using two U-joints, ensure they are correctly phased (aligned).
For specific kits, it is advised to mark the straight-ahead position of the steering box/rack before starting the conversion to use as a reference point.

Note the importance of ensuring rack itself is centred with wheels straight ahead, and steering wheel in straight ahead position when fitting. Worth having tracking checked as well. Note also that oversensitive assistance (controlled by potentiometer) can lead to lack of wheel centering. Finally have dealer check there is a permanent (fused at 40 amp) battery connection to EPAS on appropriate terminal as well as the ignition fed wake up feed. Also correct speed signal feed has been wired in.

Please let us know if your problem is resolved following returning your car to dealer.

As an update:

We jacked up the car and even wheels free the steering is sticky and stiff, with or without the ignition on, and the same wherever the adjustment knob is positioned. If you grab the road wheel ts impossible to move it. Without the mods if the car was jacked up it was possible to spin the steering wheel by grabbing the tyre and pulling/pushing,

To isolate the location of the stiffness we disconnected the steering column near the rack, I now know that the front suspension is as expected, no stiffness or friction at all. With the car jacked up the wheels can be moved from lock to lock easily by pulling on the tyre.

So it's the column.

We have noted that the steering column is far from straight, there are considerable corners at each Universal Joint. We all think that looks wrong.

The garage investigating for me have spoken to EZ who confirm its not as expected and they're being very helpful. The investigations continue!

FYI mine has a straight column coming through the firewall it then has UJ to a straight link that goes through the front wing, on it a label "PROTOTYPE PART REPLACING MSR 0061" "273" TRAVEN TECHNOLOGY 7120 01". this attaches to another UJ close to the steering box with a very short rod into the box.

This sounds to me like the column protrudes further into the engine bay when the system is fitted and needs a shorter UJ shaft to compensate? Retaining the original shaft would cause it to have to operate the UJs at extreme angles and would result in stiff operation maybe?

And the two UJs must be aligned properly. Otherwise they conflict.

Plenty on the internet....the middle shaft should have both journals set in the same position.

NMORGAN if you get desperate you can always come and have a look at mine.

Hello All,

my car has been back to the main dealer, and they've looked at it and sent it back to me. it still doesn't self centre. They just say that's how it should be. I disagree and think it's dangerous.

I'm all out of ideas now, i suppose I'm going to have to write off the expense and spend even more to get it put back to how it was; I cant drive it as it is, and I dont think it's saleable either.

Be careful everyone

Who is the dealer? I note BHM are now offering conversions it might be work getting them to have a look at it?

And even better - ask them if they have a car that they have converted that you can drive to make a comparison.

One other thought - since you are in Ashbourne, you could ask Langley Classics to take a look at it for you.

They resolved a major wiring problem for a fellow DonMog member and I know that several DonMog members use them for servicing. And it won't cost you a fortune in petrol to get there.

https://langleyclassics.co.uk/contact

Langley Classics
Ousley Cross Farm, Ellastone, DE6 2HD

James: 07866 631699 James@langleyclassics.co.uk Ambrose: 07747 805805 Ambrose@langleyclassics.co.uk

I would ask them to put in writing that car steering shouldn't self centre.
Or to name a car with no self centring.

looks like there's a replacement shaft and bugandymog has it fitted. So burgandymog if you can provide a measurement and picture of said shaft to Nmog perhaps that might start to shed some light on the problem.

Will do later. Mine was fitted by MMC it was the press car first +4 fitted with EZ and it self centres.

First pic 24 cm between joints.

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To add further confusion Dave there are three UJ's on steering if later cars. The one nearest steering wheel to accomodate vertical adjustment of steering position. On my car the yokes of second two are not aligned having an offset around 30° and it steers fine with the help of factory standard EPAS below, as fitted to Toyota Aygo, Peugeot 107 etc. This differs from the requirement for a transmission propshaft



There is a useful pdf download available here explaining phasing of UJ's on a steering shaft.

Whilst the yoke offset found on my car aligns with article, turning steering at wheels to accomodate greasing whilst on ramp I can still feel steering wheel accelerating/decelerating a tad.

Yep! That's the same as mine too Richard but without the power steering of course.

Follow up post after doing some research. This is the EPAS motor on my August 2018 car Jon. Would be very surprised if yours in not the same.



The Denso 995-10500 is also fitted to variants at least of Toyota Aygo, Peugeot 107 and Citroen C1. In each case they employ speed sensing input. MMC's wiring schematic for both 3.7 Roadster and GDI Plus 4 show a cable on four pin EPAS connector, present if employed or not, receiving a feed from pin 11 on BCU. I cannot imagine this being other than the speed signal which is distributed via CANBUS and available to BCU. Whilst the Denso EPAS will function without this signal it then defaults to full assistance at all speeds meaning the steering would be extremely light at high speeds possibly more so on a light Morgan. This makes me extremely sceptical of the advice you were given by MMC and possibly explained by there being more than one EPAS system used on our Roadsters.

Interesting info Richard

I remember pratting about for days trying to get my Cruise to recognise the speed signal from the CANBUS to calibrate the set-up and gave up, eventually adding a GPS module

When making an enquiry about the cost of fitting power steering, according to the lady I spoke to at Allon White sports cars who currently fit the EZ power steering system to Morgans, she said the EZ system does not use vehicle speed data. It varies the amount of assistance provided by sensing the level of torque needed to turn the steering wheel.


Tony

Yes John V6 had the same issue with his cruise control fitter. Speed comes up easily enough via my OBD2 port though.

Yes I did. The fitter couldn't find how the speedo got the speed signal

Its on CANBUS so guess your fitter didn't have appropriate decode module or didn't know where to look.



Haven't had need to try it but guess you could tap into the above mentioned yellow/pink wire that feeds the EPAS connector.

I gave him that schematic but it didn't work . I don't know why.

Ditto, I specially wired up a break out plug (if that's the correct name ?) so as not to damage the loom and still no luck

Thankfully I've never had cause to look further but clearly the speed data is present