Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) 1995 +8 heater core

Aaron
Trying the K-Seal now, it still leaks....

With a rad seal you need to run it up to temperature for it to work then make sure the heater is running hot and whilst running you should see the drip slow and stop over about ten minutes if its going to work. in my experience it only works for a limited time. Obviously the size of leak and duration of use effect its efficiency so you will have to sort it out but you should have a tell tale mark where there leak is.

I've used K seal on LandRover, MGFs and a B V8 all with good results and a good few years use behind them. Fine for a pinhole weep, no use whatsoever ever if the hole is bigger though

Hi Aaron,


Read Sewin. You may not have followed the key instructions he notes. That being said, all rad leak products, in my experience, are only to be used in
dire emergencies. If you have to use one of them, (they are amazing for an emergency) return home, find the cause of leak at your leisure then drain
your entire coolant system, flush the engine well and use new coolant mixture. And in this case, as you are already home and at your leisure......

And, if I may supplement the other fine comments here....

BTW, your Plus 8 (a 1995..an important transition year ) was made in a year that the best of them were made, IMHO. Depending on the week, it have a cross-
bolted block, an early R380 gearbox, a Salisbury with a Quaife LSD diff, a hoop suspension, post-June 1993 brakes, a properly level engine, a post-PECK/GALLAY
cabin heater....so on.

A. Diagnosis is 90% of repair.] So patience is the best tool you have. In that, we amateurs are luckier than professionals. They have no time. Up to recently, we
even became annoyed when they charged us for hours of diagnosis!

B. Depending on the chassis, the car could be one of the last of the Owen chassis (1967 to 1995ish). All of these were canted backwards so anything leaking
anywhere ends up at the bulkhead though with the physics of liquid surface adhesion, a leak can end up anywhere!! BTW, there are a fine harmless products for
tracing leaks of any automobile liquid. It harmlessly makes liquids glow under a black light.

C. The hoses the MMC used in your era and before suffer from the saddest "best-before" dates. AI suggests a safe expectation of 4 to 5 years (50- 60k miles), but
who of us respects something like that?!! Almost all wait until our Morgan day or holiday is ruined. There is no pride in having a car with the oldest old hoses. My
solution for my own sloth is to find and use hoses (all types) that have no-best before date. That solution might seem costly, but it is, in fact, much cheaper for owners,
whether they are lazy or fanatically diligent. And hoses take no expertise to change. Do your research, take advice, and assemble your purchases findings and do it
at your pace while listening to music. I now tell new owners of used Morgans to change ALL the liquids and hoses (and the fan/serpentine belt) as soon as they can.
Saves a world of trouble for these owners for their first decade.

D. The Matrix. Lastly, if it does come to that, a matrix (aka cabin heater core) can usually be repaired quite quickly if you can find someone with Luddite's skills. If not,
before a lengthy and frustrating search saga begins, try HERE.

Lorne

K-Seal failing was because my wife talked me out of it. Took cart to local specialist, ended up putting a heater core from a 1995 Lotus Elise in it, which exactly fit. No leaks now!