Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Sourcing push button dash switches

WARNING!

Please don't try to use Morgan's aux lighting loom I eventually uncovered, it could have been a coincidence but shortly after getting it all working I cooked my PCB. Coincidence or not, it's simply not worth the risk, my advice is buy adecent pre-made aux light wiring loom off eBay as it'll not only work out cheaper than buying the cable, relay and fuse holder and building a loom yourself, it'll also remove all potential risk (real or otherwise) of cooking the PCB.

Go old skool and lay a completely independant stand-alone loom with switch, relay and fuse; that's what I ended up doing to remove all the fuse blowing and fried PCB tracking issues I'd suffered when I attempted to use Morgan's aux light circuit. I was forced to save the day with a good used PCB off a late model 4/4 from a breaker, it seems robust so far and had clearly seen improvements over Monty's 2011 original. The manufaturer had added fuses to protect cirtain circuits on the board that certainly weren't present on earlier versions.

In summary, I strongly advise keeping it simple with a stand alone aux light loom, at all costs keep as much load off the dreadful PCB as you can and at least some of the risk of the damn thing failing is removed. If my late model 4/4 PCB fails, I'll certaily be following Rog's PCB delete by adding a bank of traditional 12v automotive relays.

Dave.

The blue/yellow wire on 2006 - 2014 Classic models within the chassis wiring loom linking optional spot/fog lamps at front of car to the dash area is a standalone connection and therefore has in itself absolutely no connection to the PCB referred to above. It terminates in an eight pin connector with only two of those pins used, the second carrying a side light feed (red/orange) which I would ignore. It's perfectly safe to use the blue/yellow cable though but would recommend any conditional switching should be performed by an additional relay, in the case of spots triggered by the high beam feed (blue/white), in conjunction with its own selection switch and separate in line fused battery feed. I believe the PCB did provide conditional switching for front fog lights but suggest this is not used.

Thanks again everyone. I will definitely not be attempting to use the current dashboard switches and use something with independent switching and relay + fuse.
With all those unused panel lights on the dash I might have a look at what neat switches are available, or it goes underneath where the dash light dimmer control is.
I friend of mine has a brand new pair of Lucas wing lights in his garage he thinks, if he ever finds then I'd quite like to fit those as well.

I followed Rog's advice and removed the PCB, all details are in my post .https://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/805211/dashboard-rewire. So far so good, it's definitely preferable and cheaper than having the factory PCB repaired/replaced.