Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Fuel Tank Rust

Appealing to the brains trust. The old girl is a bit grimy in the fuel department. I have been persevering for a few years, but lately it is getting worse. She is more than 50 years old, looks good for her age,, but in dire need of an internal plumbing clean out. We seem to be having an issue with rust in the fuel nearly all the time now

I am reluctant to pull the fuel tank out (though I could, I'm reasonably handy) for fear of disturbing more than I need to, and to be honest afraid of taking it out only to find someone tells me it needs to be thrown away and a new one fitted. I contacted Mulfab some time ago, and discovered that a new tank landed here in Australia was going to cost me more that 10 % of what I paid for the car.

So, any suggestions? I've checked out some of the fuel tank "Sealing Kits" and would be happy to give it a go. The tank does not leak externally, but seems to be shedding rust fiarly consistently, so much so that the old girl has a terrible cough all the time.

Has anyone tried the flush and reflush and reflush method with any success, or is that just my wishful thinking? Are there any things I could try prior to pulling the tank out? Doe anyone know how the Sealer Kits go and any recommendations? Do I just bite the bullet, pull it out and go see a fab shop or radiator specialist?

Useful website here discussing fuel tank restoration particularly internal.

Pretty sure that Morgan fuel tanks are unlikely to present a challenge to a local fabrication workshop...Although I do simpathise with your wish for a quick fix, as I too would not fancy the idea of removing and replacing a fuel tank...
Best of luck in your decision making process...

My experience is limited. My MGB tank was corroded but only where water/condensation collected at the lowest point. This was around the pick up, and along the front edge. I treated that going in through the sender hole using a long brush, and a rust converter.

Someone in the club tried to vacuum the rust out, and it exploded the vacuum when the motor sparked the vapour. Tanks are dangerous. Even draining one leaves residual vapour outside and inside. It's suggested that you can pump exhaust gas through the tank to neutralise vapour, but I've never tried it.

A corroded tank will never stop presenting problems. But first, find a way to look inside.

I would certainly look at getting one fabricated - it's literally just a box with a hole and pipe.

I fitted Sifab stainless one a few years back. Fairly straightforward, and replaced the wooden slats with a cradle so much easier to remove in the future.

Mine had previously been lined by a PO, but the lining was disintegrating and regularly blocked the fuel pick up, and idle jets (until I stuck in a decent filter)

I would definitely advocate a fab shop. Stainless if you’re road driver. You can make the dimensions a little taller and leverage the rear cross member lip for support. A cradle will be better than the ply and watch out for the hand brake articulation on a car that age and its proximity to the rear of the tank.

I’d ask for them to fit two unions for fuelling. You’ll only need one for now on a carb car… but if you ever want to fit injection or a new motor later you’ll have the second port for fuel return… a few pence now can save hundreds later.

You’ll likely have the Old Ford lever style fuel sender (assuming it still works)… this would be an ideal time to consider a more modern and reliable set up … it just means a slightly different fuel sender bolt pattern.

Finally don’t forget to ask for a drain plug if you want one. The one I recently ordered from Mulfab was supplied without one. Not a major issue but could be convenient for ease of drain down in the future.

If you want to take a look at some considerations - check out Episode 3 and 4 of my YouTube series… there’s a whole overhaul and replacement of an old rusty fuel tank…. Which I’m kicking myself for not replacing when I first restored the car.

if you have to take it out then I'd replace it.

Yep, fully agree with cerealsurfer to the letter! Where you live you'll be able to get a stainless tank fabricated for a lot less than mulfab and that's without the cost of sending it. Try a local car specialist or two they will either make their own of buy them in made to spec. the sort that look after weekend racing guys should be the first port of call.

Tank resolution methods are really only ever going to be a temporary fix and with problems in the future to revisit.

Try boat fuel tank makers/suppliers. Look at ebay site. float your boat. 55120

They sell various sizes..... all oblong /squared in stainless steel 30-60 ltr I'm sure they could be adapted for a mog!

To go down the clean out, treat and line with liquid goop, you WILL have to remove the tank because you have to slosh it around - on that basis I would replace with new at the age of yours for safety anyway