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#843549 18/05/26 03:19 PM
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stumog Offline OP
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Can anyone help help me. I need to buy a new Radiator for my 2008 Morgan Roadster V6


Morgan 2009 Roadster Rolls Royce Lush Green 3.0 V6
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I would say Mulfab but I had one fitted by a Morgan dealer & when after 18 months it failed Mulfab said the dealer got the fitting wrong. The reality was the top weld wasn't full penetration at all.

I would hope others on here can help & maybe I was unlucky but my advice is avoid Mulfab


JohnV6
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Had a replacement radiator from Mulfab fitted to my 2002 +8 in 2016, 40k miles later absolutely no problems.


Les Ellis
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Mine's a SiFab and well made, unfortunately he seems to have disappeared off planet Earth

The early Roadsters had a proper brass/copper rad which could be repaired - could you confirm yours has the plastic end tanks please Stumog (which is not repairable)


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Thank you all for your very kind replies. The one I have taken off is a Mulberry Fabs. all Ali Rad which has rotted on most parts of it but I bought it 13 years ago .. I would post a picture of the rotted rad but I am not too sure how to download my pictures, anyway thanks for your help


Morgan 2009 Roadster Rolls Royce Lush Green 3.0 V6
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Just to add your only realistic option is to fit another Mulfab radiator given the demise of SiFab a couple of years ago. Ironically the owner Simon previously worked for Mulfab.

A liitle surprised existing Mulfab rad has rotted away, albeit after 13 years. Can't help but wonder what coolant you were using thinking


Richard

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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Just to add your only realistic option is to fit another Mulfab radiator given the demise of SiFab a couple of years ago. Ironically the owner Simon previously worked for Mulfab. A liitle surprised existing Mulfab rad has rotted away, albeit after 13 years. Can't help but wonder what coolant you were using thinking

In 2008, Simon was making 50% of the Mulfab rads, with a notably higher failure rate than Peter's so I am not surprised. As for today's Mulfab, they are not the Mulfab we had under Peter Mulberry. However they do have Peter later designs which are infinitely better than anything else available in the world at the moment. II have tried out four Peter Mulberry rads. Never had one fail. BTW, this is a sad area for trads as the rads could be so much more improved. And rad fans have come so far in 20 years! The traditional metal Morgan rad thickness and canting in the non-Mulfab aftermarket is counter-intuitive.

However, I'm with you,.How does an aluminum rad rot?!!! Something is missing. With respect, it is perhaps a less than precise explanation. I have only something like that seen that with a major US rad source where they epoxy joints rather than weld them..epoxy does not expand and contract so sadness is inevitable.

Lorne

Last edited by gomog; 19/05/26 10:05 PM.
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Wow collecting percentages of failed English aftermarket radiators for Morgans from the other side of the Atlantic ........ Give that man a hobby


99 plus 8 indigo
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Originally Posted by waikiore
Wow collecting percentages of failed English aftermarket radiators for Morgans from the other side of the Atlantic ........ Give that man a hobby

Hi Waikiore,

Tsk! It would stop a lot of confusion if you read what I write. But I enjoy debate. It is the only way to avoid mistakes.

I have never had an English rad fail for me. I have used/experiments with 5 over 35 years, all of them made by Peter and one by the Factory. Save the Factory one, (which I gave the dear Button) they have all stood the test of time and did their job. I loved trying Peter's advanced rads as he invented them. I do not have a budget for Morgan things.

I could not understand stumog's "rotted" rad. So I consulted a radiator specialist since, a chemist. The fellow reminded me that if and mechanics/owners ignore the warnings and mix different coolants, an acidic sludge can form. Over time, this will eat away at all alloy parts, the radiator, the water pump, the cylinder heads.... Literally rot them Different coolants (IAT, OAT, HOAT, or P-HOAT) use varying corrosion inhibitors and additive packages and when these different chemistries meet, they can interact in a hostile fashion:The mixture coagulates into a thick paste, blocking coolant passages and attacking alloy. Over time, this corrosion strips away protective layers, the alloy and causes overheating and finally engine failure..

Of course, it can be easily be prevented by reading coolant labels and never mixing coolants. The is alloy and aluminum engine ABCs. However, for owners, preventing mixing is easier to determine outside the UK/Europe as the coolant colours (Canada USA Australia) are regulated by law to prevent such mistakes happening. But coolant colours in the UK/Europe have no universal code, meaning the same colour from different brands can have totally different formulas. I never had a problem with my UK rads with the Plus 8 I kept in the UK K. But I read labels. This is part of the ABCs of motoring. This incident is likely not a manufacturer error. It is all up on GoMoG

Lorne.

P.S. Waikiore If you read what I wrote, you would have learned that I have seen failures with US made Morgan rads, notably Griffen, the biggest producer of aftermarket rads for the US classic car trade. .

Last edited by gomog; 20/05/26 10:15 AM.
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Originally Posted by gomog
Originally Posted by waikiore
Wow collecting percentages of failed English aftermarket radiators for Morgans from the other side of the Atlantic ........ Give that man a hobby

Hi Waikiore,

Tsk! It would stop a lot of confusion if you read what I write. But I enjoy debate. It is the only way to avoid mistakes.

I have never had an English rad fail for me. .

Just to remind you what you originally typed smile

Originally Posted by gomog
In 2008, Simon was making 50% of the Mulfab rads, with a notably higher failure rate than Peter's so I am not surprised


"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
1972 4/4, 1981 MGBGT, 1984 FLHT1340, 1980 XLH1000, 1990 ZX10
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