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#845396 23/06/26 10:05 AM
Joined: Feb 2026
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Hi
I am looking to buy a spare clutch cable to take on a tour of Europe
I have a Roadster v6 3.0L 2008
Would anyone know the best source, or a part number?

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Needs to Get Out More!
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Doesn't your Roadster have a hydraulic clutch thinking


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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I assumed not, but great news if it does, I will check
Many thanks

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Fluid reservoir on my S1 roadster was drivers side next to the start motor.

Info here
https://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/45797/1


JohnV6
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Andy I think you'll find you have an eccentric hydraulic clutch. This means that the clutch diaphragm and thrust bearing are positioned inside the bell housing and are like a circle surrounding the gearbox input shaft, It works like a set of bellows. On the cars bulkhead you will have a separate small reservoir with a braided tube coming off the bottom which enters the top of the bell housing just behind the engine at the top, This may or may not have a bleed nipple next to it.

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concentric - thankfully never had to cope with an eccentric one innocent


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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Indeed.. it's an engine out job as you can't drop the gearbox because of the chassis. In principle the concentric clutch is a good idea in that its mechanical force is directly and evenly applied with mechanical advantage to the clutch plate.
Its moving parts are really the bellows section which directly drives the thrust bearing so no strange wear problems from actuating levers and clutch forks and worse... bell housings! Now I can hear everyone saying that's ok until it goes wrong and to some extent there is truth in this but it was designed to outlast a clutch wear life and it will do this in the majority of cases. The thought behind this is if you need to change a clutch you change the concentric unit at the same time. Granted this is not always the case and some do fail but where Morgan is concerned they made it more difficult to do and removing both engine and gearbox as a unit is the best and safest option. Some cars with this fitment have no bleed option which is stupid for two reasons. Firstly it's hard to flush the dirty fluid from the concentric unit although it is really just a bag so you are not wearing piston parts as in traditional slave cylinders .
Secondly, they are notoriously difficult to bleed even when a bleed option is present and in this instant I would recommend a reverse bleed method. If this is you, feel free to contact me for further information as there are do's and don'ts. If you have the no bleed option I would suggest sucking out with a syringe all the dirty fluid from the reservoir. and replacing it annually as most of the dirt is produced by the clutch master cylinder and sits in the reservoir. It's not the best option if you had a choice but it's better than just leaving it to get totally black and contaminated and it also helps control its hydroscopic characteristics.

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Just barreling along
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Andy, you definitely have a hydraulic clutch

It may never have been done (bled) so as preventative maintenance, read Sewin's last paragraph

This is potentially what's lurking in your clutch lines & header tank

[Linked Image]

Last edited by CooperMan; 23/06/26 07:35 PM. Reason: photo added

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Tricky Dicky
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Yuck


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Con Green +8 prev






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