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HI everyone,

I'm doing a lot of work on my Aero Plus 8 and finding that many of the non-structural fasteners which attach bits to the chassis are badly corroded. These are typically dome headed M5 machine screws used in conjunction with flange nuts and are grey-coated steel.

From research, the aerospace industry uses cadmium plated fasteners but these aren't easy to find in the UK, and stainless can cause corrosion round the contact areas.

Does anyone know what the best materials are for this application?

(I've also asked a contact who works at the factory and will share his response).


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What is certain is that galvanic corrosion must be avoided—that is, two different metals fusing together over time... aluminum and stainless steel, for example... coffee


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- not a full solution per se, but on a previous Lotus Elise (with the bonded aluminium chassis) the recommended process was to use e.g. Duralac Anti-Corrosive Jointing Compound

DURALAC

The Duralec forms a barrier between the dissimilar metals and thus prevents (or at least, slows down...?) the galvanic reaction.

HTH, James


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Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I have encountered two separate problems - the first is the galvanic corrosion on the aluminium and the second is rusting of the nuts and bolts requiring drilling/grinding to remove (not good on a 10 year old car that's been stored indoors) !

I am tempted to use a combination of Duralac and A4 stainless to combat the issues - but any more suggestions welcome.

Cheers
Ambrose


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Maybe a combination of Duralec and nylon washers under the bolt head and nut

Tony

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Originally Posted by Ambrose2
I'm doing a lot of work on my Aero Plus 8 and finding that many of the non-structural fasteners which attach bits to the chassis are badly corroded..

The Factory has often used incompatible metals together. This causes corrosion of all sorts,and only some is repairable. There are ways to avoid that but most people, like the Factory ignore it. It is/was not unknown..I had conversations with dear Mark Aston when he kindly warned me of such things to avoid them.

1. The best method is to strictly follow the galvanic tables when replacing fittings. I spend 2-3 weeks replacing them all when my the MMC sent me my recreated trad in 2002/3. https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/Galvanic.htm One looks for things to do during the Canada winter .At the time, some Morgan people sold complete fittings kits. But there are also fittings specialists who sell what you want in compatible metals. Fancy motorcycle specials serve that crowd. I used John Worral in the UK and sometimes https://www.gardner-westcott.com/ in the US. Of course, there is a point where curing this ills has become very invasive.

2. You can use sprays and stuff that swear they stop such reactions. I trust them less.

3. You can move to the High Andes where the oxygen is too thin to permit rust. thumbs

By the way, I have nothing against a vary mild patina surface rust...nature's Loctite. smile You can always wipe it off.

The result is that after 24 years is that one of my Plus 8s has absolutely no corrosion in over 100k kms and 24 years. These cars are wonderful.

L. (heading back to the High Andes)

P,S. The best thing about #1 is you do it once and forget about for a century

Last edited by gomog; 27/07/26 08:38 PM.
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I use replacement stainless fittings extensively when the need or opportunity presents itself, always assembled with a blob of grease. On most occasions these are used on aluminium and have had absolutely no corrosion showing from the many hundreds I've fitted on Morgan's and Land Rover over the years. I don't dispute galvanic corrosion between these metals but simply and honestly confirm I've never seen any, noting it's likely to be mininal anyway if the greater area of the two is the aluminium.


Richard

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I try to use A4 stainless and as Richard states a bit of grease in assembly..


Dave
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