Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) EZ Power steering disaster, car almost undriveable

Mine is speed sensitive.

Some possibly helpful info here albeit AI generated:

Here is the process for centering the EZ power steering system:

1. Initial Pre-Alignment
Verify Rack Centering: Before finalizing the connection, ensure your steering rack is physically centered (even spacing on both sides) and the front wheels are pointing straight ahead.
Mechanical Alignment: Ensure the steering column is aligned precisely straight and mounted tension-free. Binding due to misalignment is a common cause of poor self-centering.
Position the Shaft: When connecting the output tube to the EZ unit, ensure the steering shaft is properly centered in the bulkhead.

2. Physical Centering (After Installation) If the steering wheel is off-center after the first test drive, do not attempt to fix it solely by adjusting the alignment on the rack if the rack itself is not in the middle of its travel.
Disconnect and Realign: Disconnect the U-joint/coupler between the steering column and the rack, straighten the steering wheel, ensure the rack is centered, and re-connect the shaft.
Adjust Tie Rods: If the rack is centered but the wheel is crooked, make small, equal adjustments to the left and right tie rod ends to straighten the steering wheel.

3. Electronic/System Centering Zero-Position Check:
Turn the key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine) to allow the EZ unit to initialize. The system should operate smoothly.
Test Drive: Take the car for a test drive, checking that the steering returns to the center on its own.
Adjust Sensitivity: If the car pulls or does not center correctly, the assist level might be too high. Use the potentiometer to reduce assistance at road speeds (the system is often designed to have strong assistance only at parking speeds).

4. Troubleshooting
Binding Check: If the steering does not return to center, check that the steering column U-joints are not binding and that the column is not under axial tension.
Recheck Phasing: If using two U-joints, ensure they are correctly phased (aligned).
For specific kits, it is advised to mark the straight-ahead position of the steering box/rack before starting the conversion to use as a reference point.

Note the importance of ensuring rack itself is centred with wheels straight ahead, and steering wheel in straight ahead position when fitting. Worth having tracking checked as well. Note also that oversensitive assistance (controlled by potentiometer) can lead to lack of wheel centering. Finally have dealer check there is a permanent (fused at 40 amp) battery connection to EPAS on appropriate terminal as well as the ignition fed wake up feed. Also correct speed signal feed has been wired in.

Please let us know if your problem is resolved following returning your car to dealer.

As an update:

We jacked up the car and even wheels free the steering is sticky and stiff, with or without the ignition on, and the same wherever the adjustment knob is positioned. If you grab the road wheel ts impossible to move it. Without the mods if the car was jacked up it was possible to spin the steering wheel by grabbing the tyre and pulling/pushing,

To isolate the location of the stiffness we disconnected the steering column near the rack, I now know that the front suspension is as expected, no stiffness or friction at all. With the car jacked up the wheels can be moved from lock to lock easily by pulling on the tyre.

So it's the column.

We have noted that the steering column is far from straight, there are considerable corners at each Universal Joint. We all think that looks wrong.

The garage investigating for me have spoken to EZ who confirm its not as expected and they're being very helpful. The investigations continue!

FYI mine has a straight column coming through the firewall it then has UJ to a straight link that goes through the front wing, on it a label "PROTOTYPE PART REPLACING MSR 0061" "273" TRAVEN TECHNOLOGY 7120 01". this attaches to another UJ close to the steering box with a very short rod into the box.

This sounds to me like the column protrudes further into the engine bay when the system is fitted and needs a shorter UJ shaft to compensate? Retaining the original shaft would cause it to have to operate the UJs at extreme angles and would result in stiff operation maybe?

And the two UJs must be aligned properly. Otherwise they conflict.

Plenty on the internet....the middle shaft should have both journals set in the same position.

NMORGAN if you get desperate you can always come and have a look at mine.

Hello All,

my car has been back to the main dealer, and they've looked at it and sent it back to me. it still doesn't self centre. They just say that's how it should be. I disagree and think it's dangerous.

I'm all out of ideas now, i suppose I'm going to have to write off the expense and spend even more to get it put back to how it was; I cant drive it as it is, and I dont think it's saleable either.

Be careful everyone

Who is the dealer? I note BHM are now offering conversions it might be work getting them to have a look at it?

And even better - ask them if they have a car that they have converted that you can drive to make a comparison.