Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Plus Four, Supersport & Plus Six (CX & CXV Generation Vehicles) Door sounds Plus Six and maybe Plus Four

As you all may know I have had our lower door cards off on the Plus Six to address the issue of the early MY door handle connectors.. While doing this, I have located an interesting source of a rattle like noise that used to occur whenever going over a bump in the road. I have found that on both doors the main wiring loom for the doors is just sitting on the lower wooden door frame and is not secured ( maybe intentionally? ), the wiring and its sleeve can move up and down against the wood and the alloy outer door skin.

The following photo of a drivers door ( taken from one of John V6 posts,.. thank you John ) shows the wiring areas ( boxed it in with a purple pen ). The issue seems worse on the nearside door, as on our Plus Six there is also a medium sized plastic loom connector rattling about.
The fix was to layer in some self adhesive 4mm neoprene matting on the lower wood frame and on the side of the interior door skin in the areas where parts of the wiring loom sit, this stops the noise. Guess self adhesive sound proofing mat would also work.



The above "noises" may only apply to the earlier cars, and could well be fixed now that Morgan has tightened its QC, but if you have a noise that you can not locate, or have the lower cards off, its worth checking.. Since sorting this I am surprised in the difference it has made..

The wires were held down by duct tape on mine.
I fitted noise cancelling foam to the door skins

You’ve only heard one rattle going over a bump?

I have been working on the car for five years slowly tracking down the multitude of squeaks, rattles and knocks.. Some I have found by investigation, others accidentally.. My wife made comment on Saturday that the car was remarkably quiet when we went down to the "Refuel" cafe /gathering area near Honiton.. Of course just before arriving home the nearside rear coilover started to squeak... The cars not named Squeak for nothing..

Not had that door noise on my 2025. Maybe fixed, or yet to come...!

In your noise tracking down exploits, by any chance, have you identified the source of a clunk, when going over large bumps? Sounds a bit like the rear of the body banging back down onto the chassis. I've checked everything I can find for tightness.

Because I have a very tight exit from my garage, applying full lock and have to forwards and reverse a few times, I can feel and hear the entire chassis, sqeaking and gently protesting at it's labours. But once on the straight and narrow driveway, it all disappears. It's a Morgan, with it's annoying idoiosyncracies, which can drive you to distraction in seeking out that occassional annoyance, that distrubes your inner calm and enjoyment. Having said that, I'm going to see it I can sort out that bloody annoying clunk in the drive train which I think is the diff, but Malvern maintain is the wire wheel adaptor.

First I'll sound proof the interior and see if \I can't hear it anymore, therefore it's out of ear shot, then of course doesn't exist . Failing that fix the diff ,if its that ( BMW service bulletin), or get the wire wheel adaptors replaced with better and tighter spline matching to the wires. It's the only bit of annoyance on an otherwise great car..............

I'm also wondering whether the BMW 5 year recommended oil change on the ZF auto gearbox, not in the Morgan service requirements, as they say sealed for life, is a false economy.............having asked the question of Malvern , the immediate response was that will be expensive, didn't fill me with confidence.

Has anyone else changed their gearbox oil, it's rare today to get sealed for life gearbox's, although it was a trend in for a time in recent decades , until the more sophiticated gearboxes came along.

I am afraid I can not give you an accurate answer as such, as our car does not have factory supplied suspension, we changed it a few years ago to the SSL setup for the Plus Six. I have found the SSL setup with Spax dampers and their own coil springs to give a quieter ride than factory coil overs. ( Sadly the SSL setup is now no longer available ).

However, we do have a slight rear clunk going over large bumps or down into potholes when at very low speed. I suspect it is from the rear suspension coil over that is doing the work with the obstacle, but as of yet I can not prove it. I have started a process of applying sound deadening material to the external alloy areas in the immediate area of the rear suspension coil over. There has been a slight reduction of noise " clunk" by doing this, but it is still there.. We only hear the clunk noise when at say 5 mph departing our house going up our narrow lane, as this is between field banks it tends to also magnify any sounds. I have not mentioned the work on TM to add sound deadening material in the vicinity of the rear coil over, as I am not sure if its durable option..as it is exposed to the weather and some road debris.. By next summer I will know if the idea works and stays in place.

This winter I have a few underbody projects to pursue, so I will be looking for any source of noise from the rear of the car, so as they say.. to be continued...

I have identified that on our car the handbrake cable can strike the rear upper suspension adjustable arm, but only at maximum suspension deflection.. I placed neoprene coated in self amalgamating rubber tape in the area of contact, not sure if this helped the noise to be honest.
dave

I’m not sure if this is the right place to discuss the following issue :

I’m starting to have trouble with the central locking on my Plus Four.
The locking function works fine, but when unlocking via the remote, the driver's door stays locked about half the time.
Have any of you experienced this issue with your CX models?

Not exactly, but I did have to change the battery in the remote last year as the unlocking did not always happen using the remote.. The battery change fixed this on our car. If its just the drivers door that's causing the issue, then likely the issue is in that door. If you partly remove the lower section of the door card you then have access to the lock itself and the locks remote operated actuator. (This assumes that Morgan has made the door card in two sections in your cars MY build ).
You can see the remote actuator sitting on the doors lower ash frame in the first posts picture, again, this assumes its not been changed for your cars MY.

I would do the easy things. Put some graphite on the key & lubricate the lock.

After unlocking on the fob does it open manually on the inside?

Does the drivers side always unlock.

Changing the fob battery can't hurt.

With the lower door card off you should see the central locking moving the rod going to the door. If it works I guess the lock is sticking. The actuator is in the centre between the purple boxes on Dave's photo
The card comes of by removing the screws on the side & bottom of the door.

https://www.tm-img.com/images/2026/09/07/Morgan-loose-fittings.png