Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Kingpins - DaveW's How To...........

as far as I know between me selling and you acquiring WX09 was used daily in all weather for commuting from Brum to Malvern

Got it in one. I don't think the garage that replaced them greased enough and the owner didn't grease at all. Not saying who or where as I know he'd be embarrassed.

It might just be down to an MOT tester who is not use to Morgans!

Excellent post and like others helped me better understand it all. Thanks.

Might be good if this became a sticky for easy future reference?

Jays - no it wasn't an MOT inspector, I found the play.

The owner complained of slight wheel wobble but not really at the speeds that characterise the normal effect. I jacked the car up and felt the play - by hand, no levers etc used.

??????????

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Jack

Ok, to feel play in a sliding pillar without using levers.

Jack car up at front. Either wedge a stick to hold the brakes on or employ an assistant. This removes the small amount of play a wheel bearing should give. Very easy to think from the play the sliding pillar is worn but in actuality, it's the bearing.

Then, grasp the front roadwheel with both hands at 11 to 5, apply a modest amount of lifting force that would lift the roadwheel, the bearing and pillar. You won't see any movement but it is important to lift. Then while doing this, try and rock the wheel. Repeat at 5 past 7. If there is play, you will feel it. Then repeat for the other side.

Pre 59 (or is it 60?) sliding pillars are allowed some movement for the MOT but later cars, none. Quite ridiculous as any sliding pillar will have some play if it is to go up and down. That said, I've never had a problem as most MOT inspectors have no idea how to look for play.

If you think you have too much wheelbearing movement. With car jacked down, undo cover, jack back up, withdraw splitpin, tighten wheel nut until a modicum of drag in rotation is felt. I do this by feel but my guess is no more than 35 foot pounds, if that (I don't do Nm on Morgans). Then undo until first hole and castellation on nut align. If one is nearly aligned without loosening, go for the next one. Slip a new splitpin in, and check wheel is free to rotate and the tiniest amount of play can be felt. If all is well, bend splitpin and replace cover. You can often reuse a splitpin but all the books say "never" and splitpins are very cheap.

An old school mechanic should be familiar with this proceedure, Vauxhall Chevettes, RWD Ford Escorts are like this but no idea if current BMWs and Mercs have this sort of front wheel bearing.

If the car did 14,000 miles in little more than 9 months for daily commuting, then I can easily believe that it maybe didn't get enough attention at the front to prevent premature wear on the kingpins. 9 months = 36 weeks x 5 days = 180 days, so the mileage was getting on for 40 miles each way, or a bit less if the period it was used for was longer.

So really the suspension should have been inspected and greased probably every couple of weeks, which is a pretty exacting schedule to maintain?

So yes, hardly surprising the kingpins are worn. As I said, fit hardchrome pins, rebound spring gaiters, make sure you grease every 1,000 miles and you'll not have to worry ever again.

Good News, an independent assessor has agreed that the kingpins both need replacing and my local Morgan Dealer is organising the work F O C.

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Jack

Post Photobucket reboot from January 2011.

2017 Note: This was my first major job on a Morgan and my first long technical post on TM. There are 80 images! I learned a lot while doing this job, including the fact that spring compressors are not necessary. My secong kingpin adventure is further down my list of 'How To's' dated 13th October 2014. This job get easier with practice!

The time has finally arrived. Another wet but warm Saturday in January 2011..............
I started at 11.30 and finished at 4.30, so five hours on this stint.

Before I start - this job is SAFETY CRITICAL. oldgit
You should not attempt this job unless you are experienced in dealing with suspension & brakes. It is not suitable for a first foray into DIY mechanicing, so if you are not experienced, let somebody do it who is.

First, using Uncle Phils tool.......loosen the wheel nut.



Next jack up and place securely on axle stands. Here there are two under the lower cross tube, and two under the gearbox cross-member.



Next remove the wheel.



I found some casting marks on the gearbox, so here they are for reference......... They are on the nearside bellhousing.



This is the rear of the nearside brake caliper. Access to the top bolt is very tight. The Caliper bolts are 3/4AF.



Here is the socket in place - it fits easier than I expected.



With the two bolts removed, the caliper can be hung out of the way using cable ties.



The split pin which retains the hub nut can be removed through a hole in the splines. I marked the nut with tippex, so that I can refit in the same position, the nut was finger tight. It's important to note how slack the hub bearings are before loosening. The nut is "one and 3/16" inches.



Once the split pin & nut are removed, a rubber mallet can be used to remove the hub.



A bit blurry, but this shows that the washer which fits under the nut is punched so that it can't rotate.



More to follow>>>>>>>>>>