Talk Morgan Forums Thread Like Summary - 2007 Morgan 4/4 servicing

Hello, I'd like to service my 4/4 myself. I'm a reasonably competent home mechanic, but more used to classic cars. the car has done just over 21,000 miles I have a few beginner questions
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Any sources of "workshop manual" type information - ive looked and I can find everything but.
The engine is listed as a Ford CHBB is that the same as a Duratec or a zetec?
Can anyone recommend a supplier I generally use Melvyn Rutter but they dont seem to stock much of a range of service parts im planning to do the oil & brakes
is the rear axle oil easy to change?
I have no idea if the cam belt has been changed or not. Does it need changing at 21k miles in 17 years? I'll probably leave that to a garage.
Should i leave the spark plugs to a garage too?, it looks pretty straight forward if youre careful

Many thanks for any advice given

Recommend Opie Oils down at Redruth in Cornwall for quality and price.Available via internet.

Rear axle: Big filler hole is best accessed down from removed rear parcel shelf. Make sure it will come undone before draining! Draining best accessed from underneath. Jack up car to belly under & remove drain plug, then lower to ground to allow last bit to drain. Raise again to replace drain bolt with some ptfe tape perhaps , then lower to refill until fluid just starts to run out of filler hole.Replace filler plug again with a bit of ptfe tape if you like.
Note, you may or may not have a LSD axle. When jacked up, rotate one wheel. If the other one goes in the opposite direction then it is an ordinary axle but if it goes in same direction then its LSD. Correct oil for LSD is essential. I use Castrol Transmax Limited Slip LL 75W140.
Cam belt should have been changed long ago as they are time and mileage dependant.
Brake linings and pads should be fine at that low mileage but check pistons in rear slave cylinders are free to move as they are prone to seizing up. If they are ok, pull rubber boots back and apply some Ceretec grease to the pistons, to help keep them free and clear of water ingress.

I bought the appropriate Ford Focus Haynes manual to cover the engine of my 4/4 Sport, sent it on to Fitz late of this parish..
Another vote for Opie they are very knowledgeable.

My 4/4 2008 also has a CHBB engine which has the cam chain drive (not rubber belt) so you should not have to change that. BUT Please double check with MMC as I am NOT sure of the year chain cam drive was introduced.
Plug change isn't difficult but you will need a long reach box spanner. Make sure to grease the sliding pillars frequently. If you have the plastic type original radiator beware its prone to leaks developing and the top hose pipe exit failed on mine. Aluminium Mulfab radiators are the answer. My Duratec engine has now done approximately 85,000 miles and its really sweet.
If you have the 1.8 there is a little tweek you may like to try that's not too difficult . The buttefly valve air intake in its original form is prevented from fully opening in other words it's de-tuned. A file is all that''s needed to remove a small corner stop that will then allow it to open properly. The original post on these pages tells how to do it in full detail.

Do a quick check of your sump plug.
Mine is not standard Ford, or anyone else’s for that matter. It consists of a shouldered bolt and dowty washer.

Hope this is of use

Alan you may find this parts manual download useful. It includes various wiring loom schematics for your car.

The other parts supplier I use is Brands Hatch Morgan although I try to be aware of direct sources for parts borrowed from other cars, saving a lot of money in many cases.