Click here to return to the home page.
Image of a road.
Who's Online Now
1 members (Ritchie B), 262 guests, and 46 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Top Posters(30 Days)
+8Rich 98
Newest Members
Scot_SJI, Jimmers, Breen60, Davidmog, Stevecarr
9,596 Registered Users
Newest Topics
Goodbye Dolly
by Clipper - 25/08/26 09:57 PM
Hot start .... vapour lock
by Pittsartist - 25/08/26 08:00 PM
Immobiliser
by Clipper - 25/08/26 12:42 PM
Monza style fuel cap
by Lionel Mandrake - 25/08/26 09:01 AM
UK car tax on CX Plus Four - bit of a rant
by Neil A - 25/08/26 07:33 AM
tow bar
by G Walker - 24/08/26 06:52 PM
Ez Carlift Now Sold
by IMHO - 24/08/26 02:35 PM
Latest Photos
tow bar
tow bar
by G Walker, August 24
Prescott double anniversary
Prescott double anniversary
by CooperMan, August 18
Air Crash Sites: Cairngorms
Air Crash Sites: Cairngorms
by RedThree, August 13
Four-seater luggage rack
Four-seater luggage rack
by Soleng, August 9
New M3W orange 2012
New M3W orange 2012
by jejemek, August 7
Forum Statistics
Forums39
Topics49,836
Posts837,246
Members9,596
Most Online1,063
Jun 14th, 2026
Today's Birthdays
FitFourfour
Thread Like Summary
PaulV, Will Stotts
Total Likes: 6
Original Post (Thread Starter)
by Will Stotts
Will Stotts
Hey fellow 3-wheelers,

Got my last problem with a blown clutch master cylinder all taken care of. The part swap and full replacement and flushing of the brake and clutch lines went smoothly, considering the tight space around the peddle box.

I was getting ready to better insulate the cockpit and a couple of hex head fasteners that were stripped at the heads and had to be removed carefully with a grinder and replaced. I have about 2300 miles on total, purchased it with 628 previous miles. The area under the drive shaft and bevel box was pretty fouled with oil/dirt. Is this “normal”?

I am going to wait to do the insulation after I change the bevel box oil.

Knowledgeable opinions sought here. Thanks!!!

Will Stotts

Sweating out the 2024 heat wave in SoCal desert




[Linked Image]
Liked Replies
by RedThree
RedThree
Pinion nut is 33mm across the flats and the hex part is very shallow. You'll do less damage to the nut when you remove it if you face off the internal bevel of the socket before applying force to it. Thread is left hand as others have said, and unless you really want to get involved in setting up the pinion shaft preload, carefully scribe the nut and pinion shaft so that after the old seal has been replaced the nut can be tightened to exactly the original position on the shaft, the actual torque required to do this does not matter, it's the position on the shaft that matters. This of course assumes that Quaife/Morgan got it right in the first place!😃🤔
2 members like this
by Rog G
Rog G
Undo the bolts and once you have cut the straps the prop shaft can be swung out of the way you will then have access to the pinion nut, LH thread, which will allow you to remove the pinion flange the oil seal is then housed within the gold coloured housing.
1 member likes this
by Rog G
Rog G
That description will get you what you need.

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p...bber-Rotary-Shaft-Seal/product_info.html
1 member likes this
by planenut
planenut
I would suggest you replace the oil seal soon and refill the bevel box as it probably won't have much oil left in it! It only take about 330ml in total. If you are a Morgan Three Wheeler Club member you can view a full set of instructions about how to replace the input seal, Bulletin March 2020. If you are not a member, contact me and I will send you a copy, if you want one?
1 member likes this
by Rog G
Rog G
Yes that is a leaking oil seal, better to replace it with a Viton seal rather than the original Nitrile. When changing bear in mind the pinion nut is LH thread.
1 member likes this
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5