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Thread Like Summary
Graham, G4FUJ, WilsonLaidlaw
Total Likes: 5
Original Post (Thread Starter)
by WilsonLaidlaw
WilsonLaidlaw
I have tried to tighten the manifold nuts on a number of occasions on my M3W (currently in over winter storage in the south of France) and using various sockets and ring spanners, succeeded to the limited extent of the tooling I have at my French house. I was going to buy a curved shank, thin ring, manifold nut spanner to take out to France with me at the beginning of June. Can someone please remind me of the size of the exhaust manifold retaining nuts on the S&S engine. Mine is 2012 vintage. I seem to remember that they are AF not Metric, which given the US origins of the engine is no surprise. If anyone can suggest a better tool, I would be happy to buy that. My M3W parts book lists the exhaust studs as 5/16" UNF x 1.7", but does not list the size of the nuts. 5/16" thread would normally suggest a 1/2" AF nut but I have a slight feeling that the nuts may have been 9/16", which common for a 5/16" thread, if softer non-corroding material exhaust manifold nuts are used (monel metal or brass), with thicker walls.

Wilson
Liked Replies
by planenut
planenut
The standard exhaust nuts are 7/16 A/F spanner size, 5/16 UNF thread size. These are a tight fit for all but the thinest of spanners. A good alternative is to use aircraft high temp Kaynar type nuts, sometimes known as "Jet nuts", usually with a silver anti seize coating. These nuts come with with a 3/8 A/F spanner size that gives a very useful bit of extra clearance for fitting. A Military Standard part number for these is MS21043.
1 member likes this
by WilsonLaidlaw
WilsonLaidlaw
I will check but I should have some 5/6" UNF Jet/K nuts, as all the nuts in the Judd engine in my Ralt single seater hill climb car were UNF Jet/K nuts or 12 point nuts. I use to have a large chest full of jet and bi-hex nuts and grade 8 aircraft bolts in all different sizes but various friends have raided it over the 25 years+ since I was forced to give up speed hill climbing, when old cervical spine injuries caught up with me trying to take corners at 3 to 4G loadings. I will go down to the garage and check. Many thanks for the info. I have a feeling that someone has put 1/2" AF nuts on my exhaust manifolds which may explain both why they are very difficult to keep tight and to get a tool on to them. If I take new 5/6" K nuts down with me, I may have to cut the old ones partially off with a carbide disc in my Dremel tool and then split with a cold chisel.

Wilson

[Linked Image]
1 member likes this
by Bunny
Bunny
Lots of chat about M3W exhaust studs and nuts in this THREAD.
1 member likes this
by Bunny
Bunny
Originally Posted by WilsonLaidlaw
Does anyone remember the part number for the ARP studs.
According to the old thread I linked to in my post above, they are ARP3101625.
1 member likes this
by Stevo666
Stevo666
Originally Posted by WilsonLaidlaw
Steve,

I have to admit I have not looked at the nuts since it came back from you. I presume you replaced the nuts that were previously there, which from memory were 1/2" AF cadmium plated nuts, which when I changed the exhaust to a G56, were a nightmare to undo and do up. It was just one of the things I thought I should look at, when I get it out of storage, as there is an exhaust rattle and I was going to do an end to end on the "pipes" but it is probably the heat shields. The metallastic bobbins could also probably do with replacing but I have spares of those. I think in AF sockets I only have 1/2" and 3/8" drive in France, so I will take a deep 3/8AF 1/4" drive socket out with me. I do have a large 1/4" drive metric set with various extensions and both powered and unpowered ratchets.

Wilson
The 3/8th drive will work just but you will need a long extension bar at the least.
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