Talk Morgan Forums Thread Like Summary - 195/60 R15 for 2018 Plus4

As I noticed there are some posts about tires.

Now my Plywoodracer is not far from his 7.birthday, but also on his seven year old tires. So time to change them.

So I‘ve got two questions: I‘ve got a sparewheel. Never used. Would you also change it? Yes, if I need it, it‘s bad. And: modern tires have a „rotation“ sign on the flange. So what‘s about the sparewheel? One side would be wrong.

The second point: I think about the factory fitted Yokohamas (yes, I know there would be better ones around) and

FIRESTONE Roadhawk 88H for just 80,-EURs (tire only). In Germany all tires have labes for fuel, rain and noise.

The Yokohama is fuel „C“, Rain „B“ and noise „A“

The Firestone is fuel „C“, Rain „A“ and noise „B“.

I think noise in a MOG is a joke, but the better rating in rain is a point.

Are there some ideas or expierience about the Firestones? Or other ideas? Yes, I read some other ideas, but in Germany they are about 120/130,-EUR per tire. Is the difference so big?

Greets René

Just make sure that your tyre fitter’s balancing machine is able to perform with the balancing cones. One place I went to which had a very up to date machine kept coming up with an error code because it couldn’t sense the wheel being mounted “properly” against its back plate.
I went to a place with an older machine which worked ok. So best to take your spare in first with the balancing cones and get them to do a trial run, before taking the wheels off the Mog.

My 2008 Plus 4 registration documents require a speed rating of V (240 km/h). Check yours before buying H-rated tires.

Harald

Hi, there are several previous threads re tyres, and several have changed to 195/65R15, a more common size in the UK,
with a benefit of slightly higher profile.
I am in the process of changing mine, best deal on Yokohama Blue Earth with 65 profile I can find is £54 each fitted, from Just Tyres.
Only issue I have is our local fitter for Just Tyres don’t have the correct cones for balancing wires, so I plan to buy cones,
still cheaper overall than the 60 profile tyre.
Rene, probably worth looking out previous threads here on TM, I have found it a great source of information and experience.
Phil.

Thanks Richard. Definitely worth considering.

Might be worth fitting a nylon block such as this Peter.



Trimmed to fit tightly into inverted U shape of gearbox cross member(after removing underseal and adding thin coat of protecting paint) it's sized to sit just 3mm proud of the metal edge and with a taper leaving more clearance than the thick aftermarket chassis protectors available. It's held in place by a couple of 6mm bolts deeply countersunk into nylon, through cross member and secured with nylock nuts.

Inadvertantly already tested coming off a road hump a little too quickly, there was just a dull thud as the nylon slipped over rather than the deafening crunch of metal hitting concrete. The tight fit ensures the metal shape is supported as well and shock spread across width of nylon.

Hard 66 nylon block bought here.

Shortening the overlong seat rail bolts the factory insist on fitting are the very first job you should do particularly the rear ones that pass through the cross member. Inner ones seen here at bottom of pic in view from rear looking forward.



Fortunately a very easy job if you have a helper. One was found already bent on mine despite minimal mileage, but managed to get nut off ok. Replace these with nylocks if not already present.