Talk Morgan Forums Thread Like Summary - +4 T16 engine hardly starts and turn off when warm

Hello at all, I've a problem with my car.

It don´t starts normally (I put the key in and turn it immediately), but it almost won't start at all.
Something in the throttle housing keeps cracking and cracking, and if I wait longer (I've even hit it a bit with a hammer), it will start. I drove it once and it kept stalling and almost died. I went straight back home because I didn't want to stop. Even a trip to the repair shop is impossible!
I keept it at 2000 rpm at home while it was idle, and the engine ran and warmed up. When I took my foot off the gas, it ran for 20 seconds and then died again. But then it started again. But hard! So it can't really be the cold start or the immobilizer, or?! I'm no expert, but I've owned a lot of cars.

Thank you
Sven

Thanks for letting us know Sven, please tell us what the problem was when you have it sorted, always a help to others with similar issues, regards John k

Hi Sven, I am afraid I can't help with ECU repairers in Germany, Suggest Google your area. provide them with the MKC number and ask their advice on repair or replacement, regards John k

Mine did that when I first had it - a 1997. Very occasionally it would not start at all. The immobiliser was playing up. I found shutting the car down, switching in the immobiliser for a few minutes, then switch it off, cured the non-starting problem.

If the problem aruses when the cold start unit resets, I would be looking specifically at the cold start valve operation not working properly and maybe causing over fuelling..
When it starts to mis fire, is there an increased smell of petrol under the bonnet and black smoke from the exhaust as they are both clues to this issue.
Also backing up Jon M comment above…when E10 was introduced, the 4 cylinder Rover engines were on a list that I seem to recall was going around some of the dealers, and were thought to be incompatible. They didn't say in what way though, so treat it as a red herring in your case as there must be plenty out there that are still behaving fine.

Even E5 degrades over time I use Stabil if the CX isn't used much like over winter.

Sven there is likely to be an Otter switch at the base of the radiator best check the information on GoMog, regards John k

ps the temperature gauges are renown to be inaccurate.