Talk Morgan Forums Thread Like Summary - Engine Misfire, now won't start

Hello Everyone,
Longtime listener, first-time caller.
First let me say that I have admired the M3W for probably 15 years, and I finally pulled the trigger and bought one from auction (thanks BAT!) and I accepted delivery of my 2013 British Racing Green beauty just over a week ago (Monday). LOVE IT! It is everything that I had hoped for, and my lovely wife concurs.
We were out for a nice run this last weekend, enjoying the absolutely perfect driving weather this last Sunday around DFW.
I was coming onto the highway, accelerating on the on-ramp, when I heard a pop from the engine and lost power. I was able to keep running, albeit with an odd tapping noise, to get to my son's house. Low power, and I felt like only one cylinder was firing (yes, still enough horses to run on one cylinder!).
This was confirmed when I reached his house and shut down, the left (driver's side) exhaust was only hot, while the right (passenger side) was scalding.
I let it sit for a bit, but it would not start at all when it was cooled down completely.
It turns over.
I checked for spark from both plugs and confirmed spark.
I checked for fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel line with a tire gauge and it maxed out at 50 psi.
I had it towed home (flat bed).
I have since checked the timing belt - solid, no miscellaneous bits.
I hooked up a laptop using the S&S Pro Tune II v4.0, and the only error codes are P0170 Front Adaptive Maxed Out and P0173 Rear Adaptive Maxed Out.
When the key is turned on, fuel pump whines. I have not removed or checked the fuel filter.
I am not sure where to go from here? How do I verify fuel is getting in the cylinders or check the EFI?

ANY and all ideas or help are appreciated!

Oh! on a side note, the left rear signal light works sometimes, and sometimes it does not. Also, If the headlights are on when I turn off the motor, the left front headlight will stay on, but at half the brightness of normal. Is this normal? Connected? one of the endearing oddities of owning a Morgan?

Thanks!

The earlier 12 pin TSM's don't seem to be quite so fragile as the later 18 pin items.....but they do still fail. The 12 pin ones are only available via Morgan. If you have problems with rear lights, it's worth checking the cable loom under the leather strap at the boot lid hinge as well, it does get crushed and the wires break and short out there, certainly worth protecting better if they are OK still.

I agree with all the other comments about the fuel pump being the problem with your M3W. I did the first Walbro pump fit and it is still going strong with no issues. It's well worth replacing the standard pump even if you have no problems. It will fail at some point and probably at the most inconvenient time, much better to do it in the garage with all the tools and parts available.

You don't need to remove the TSM to check the pins, simply remove the fusebox cover and the TSM is below the ECU. It's a black box about 5x4 cm or so. The plug is at the bottom and can be unplugged by pressing the side of the connector and pulling it out. Then count the pins in the plug.

I bought mine new in 2016. On the drive home, lost all power and had to push it about 100 yards to get it off the 4 lane (busy) road I was on. This was about 45 min away from the dealer I had just left. I got a jump start (which worked) from a local, and was on my way. After charging the battery once home, it started several times, but noticed the voltage kept being low while driving. Took back to dealer, they assumed the rectifier was the culprit, so they replaced that. Same thing happened a few days later. After much detective work, they found that some imperfect connection of ground near the battery was the issue. A little sanding and all fixed. You just never know….sucks when you have just acquired it and can’t enjoy it for a few weeks, but once sorted, you just enjoy the drives while awaiting the next learning experience.