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The air filter of the roadster seems to collect relatively hot air, with an opening right above the gear box and in short distance to the manifold. Indeed the temperature is 30°C above ambient level with spirited driving in 3rd gear. The temperature in the area on the right side of the air filter is lower, especially after removing the part of the sealing underneath the last 4-5 louvres.
So I opened the box on the right side and closed the old opening. The incoming is now only 15°C above ambient temperature.

DSC_0841 by Robert & Ali Davies,

Here is my pipe laging cost £15 and performance is improved at low revs ...no more hesitancy on acceleration or when stopped at a junction...no more heat soak...

As you can see the air intake is above the manifold and got cooked...much better now!

You will notice on the air intake there is a difference between Craig and ours. The air intake path is smooth straight and direct into criags system...on ours it is not straight or smooth and the air is therefore not laminar but full of turbulance and ultimately slows air intake.

So to improve our system...ultimately would be throttle bodies which would have bell mouth horn type air intake rather like you see on the webber carbs

like this

PRO-RACE-SR20-throttle-body-set-tbore-525048 by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr

We have a member of Folkmog that has a roadster and the bonnet has been modified to allow cold air in!

IMG_6651 by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr

Many thanks, Rob.

Will be one of the next jobs on my to do list.

I do know the bell mouth horn type air intake from the Weber carbs. But I think throttle bodies are a bit expensive, no?
Do you use a K&N filter? If so, what partnumber is it, please?

I do get those hiccups from time to time, especially whem I 'm at constant speed and then push the throttle a bid to stay at that speed.
I do have to change the air intake tube though because it has a hole above the manifold.

I have an app on my phone that reads the rover T16 engine computer and you can set fuel and idle rates etc...god send for me because I wanted a slightly higher idle and do you notice that the mapping is such that when the engine is cold it performs better then it gets hot and more sluggish? The engines run more lean when hot and rich when cold..... its an emissions thing ....

software installs on phone and you buy a cheap lead to connect between phone usb and mems connector on the car...tells you lots and is a good diagnostic tool too...

link here http://memsdiag.blogspot.com/2015/01/memsdiag-what-is-memsdiag-memsdiag-is.html

beware save all you settings before messing with this...only small tweaks required..also dont forget that you may fail emissions on the mot if you bugger it up. Mine passes mot with flying colours and low low emissions!

I measured again with the hood slightly open and the temperature went down another 3 - 10 degrees depending on the speed. The effect starts at 70 - 80 km/h or so. So I guess, I will get me these extensions. Thanks for the idea!

Stonehagen

I have the John Taylor bonnet extensions on my 2001 plus 8 and I have noticed a difference in the engine temperature, particularly this summer. I don't have any scientific proof other than the fact that the temperature gauge is slower to climb and the fan kicks in much later than it did before I fitted them. On an even less technical note I found that with these fitted an old fashion rubber door stop is exactly the right size to replace the middle hinged bonnet buffer at the junction of the wing section.