Some of my most scariest experiences were whilst driving in Naples & Rome.
You have to catch the spirit! No traffic rules but there will be always a space available for you when needed...
I do love their driving style. They are artists!
I remember in Naples driving along a one way street & people on scooters riding towards on scooters weaving in and out of the traffic. Then driving a long a street where there was double parking on the opposite side and single parking on our side. I drove like an Englishman expecting the person on the opposite side to wait for me to come through, assuming I had right of way, but he charged through the gap and we got so close that we lost both door mirrors off our company pool car!