Hi Ken
I did it in 2015, unfortunately only in an Audi A4 hire car. We did it the last day before it was closed for the winter. A little bit slippery to say the least at the top but a great road and at that time of the year totally empty. Going back down the other side is nice and twisty too. Good tunnel as well. Its only fully open between the end of June and normally 1st November. Check here
http://transfagarasan.net/
Another really good bit of road is the Strada Valea Rasnoavei (E73A) between Azuga and Brasov.
Loads of places to stay and eat. Cluj Napaco has just had alot of work done to the main centre and last summer was looking good.
Most of the main roads are in same condition as ours I thought and considering the extremes in temperature they are pretty good. A few nasty potholes here and there. Back roads are exactly what you'd expect.
Hopefully this year I'll be getting back there in the Plus 8. As others have said very friendly people and best advice is if you break down at night stay in the car. If the bears dont get you the wolves will if they dont get you the gypsies will
