I have read morer information (in German) now and it seems that the amount of cases where judder is caused by areas of different friction is huge. I will have a look if I see marks on the discs caused by the brake pad, as this was the case after the examination of the second change of discs. I now have learned among other infos that it is very important to run in new brakes and pads to put an even film of the pad material on the disc's surface:
Brake down from 60 mp/h to 6 mp/h in a bundle of sequences, never stop rolling, allow to let the brakes to chill within the trials and brake with rising force from one attempt to the next one.
Unfortunatelly I did not do so and this is new knowledge to me.
Also it was warned to stay on the brake pedal when idling after having done a sporty drive with hot brakes.
A different issue that if someone changes the discs on an hub, it will cause strong judder if the hub was not smoothed totally even, any rust has to be taken away even if it is only 1/100 of a 1 mm prominent.
This was New to Me. I changed the single puck Girling (Lorne Goldman's old units for Wilwood Disks and Calipers because I did not feel secure with the Girlings. Wilwood had instructions for breaking in the Calipers as well as the Pads. When I finished the procedure I could easily smell the front brakes. They were very hot. But for the last 40,000 miles seem to be OK. Without having an issue with this on My other Morgans I am not sure what is going on. But I would use Tim Harris's ideas as a starter. I did buy a new set of disks for My '63 +4-4Str from Peter Mulberry. The old ones had been skimmed too many times. But no issues with them either. The Wilwood disks are vented. I wonder if that helps?
