I had devised several schemes to remove the bushes. Some say, use a hacksaw down the tube to cut a long slot, which weakens the bush so that it may be drifted out. Some say use a cut down washer which will fit down inside the bush, then turned and used with a nut and threaded extractor. There are probably other ways.
It occurred to me that a socket on the end of a long extension might work. I jammed the stub axle between two timbers over the pit, becasue my vice is nowhere big enough!!!!!
So the chosen socket was just small enough to slide down the inside of one bush, and then was angled against the inside end of the other. Many hard hits with a hammer, and.........
I'm prepared to sacrifice the socket extension - it's old.
The second bush is easier, because with the first bush out of the way, a larger socket can be used which has a better location on the second bush. They are still very tricky to shift.
Here's a cleaned up stub, with accessories.
I used an old tea towel (Shhhhh!) to clean out the old grease......
Then after a degrease, a blow over of primer......
Followed by a coat of satin black.
Note that the threaded shaft for the damper is available as a stainless part, but I have discovered that my new stainless shafts have the incorrect thread for these stub axles. The originals are a finer thread, so be careful. Cross threading the stub axle will be expensive.
Finally, a lick of paint on the reaction bar........
So that brings an end to my first stint, and five hours work, without rushing too much. The problem with kingpins is that once you've done one, you must repeat the whole thing. Although the second pass is usually quicker because all the right tools are out and the technique should be better!!!!
PS - All the fasteners so far have been AF. EXCEPT - the damper shaft on the stub axle is 7/16" Whitworth.
