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Pasta with Broccoli

Anyone who watches Italian films on TV would know of the series of police films involving, as the principal character, Commissioner Salvo Montabano. The films follow a successful series of novels published by the Sicilian writer Andrea Camilleri. The novels are characterised by beautiful Sicilian settings and the use of an Italian language strongly flavoured by elements of Sicilian dialect. Camilleri spices his stories with detailed descriptions of meals, often including references to the preparation of the food. The descriptions are so real that your mouth starts to water.

Montalbano does not cook but is very appreciative of the meals left in the fridge or oven by Adelina, the lady who cleans the house for him. At lunchtime almost every day he goes to a favourite restaurant or trattoria and usually manages to tuck away a huge meal. Sicily is well known for its many small restaurants and trattorias where you may eat exceptional meals at reasonable prices. I can strongly recommend a visit to beautiful Sicily, but please avoid the hottest months of July and August. Apart from the heat it is the Italian summer holiday period and the prices are always much higher during this period.

I have recently purchased a book by Stefania Campo entitled “I segreti della tavola di Montalbano” (The secrets of Montalbano's table). In this book the author has researched the many recipes referred to by Camilleri in his novels. Many have ingredients that may be difficult to find but the following is not only simple but extremely tasty.

I should start by saying that in the Sicilian dialect broccoli is the word used for cauliflower so this recipe is actually for pasta with cauliflower. What we call broccoli is called broccoletti in Sicily, or in dialect Siciliano “sparaciddato”. It is one of the oldest vegetables cultivated by man and is rich in important nutritive elements. It is also believed to be a great aid in the prevention of some forms of cancer. Having said all that I have made this recipe with cauliflower, broccoli, and most successfully with cauliflower 'Romanesco' which has heads that are lime green with pointed, spiralled pinnacles. It is a strange looking thing but has more flavour than an ordinary white cauliflower.

A pasta dish, such as this, would be considered a first course in Italy. It would then be followed by a fish or meat dish, often without or with only one vegetable such as potatoes, and then a sweet. Bread is always provided with the meal.

Pasta with Broccoli

Ingredients

(for 4 people)

400 gr. macaroni, spirals, or any large pasta such as Rigatoni or Garganelli
1 cauliflower of about 1 kilo (or broccoli)
30 gr. pine nuts
40 gr. seedless sultanas
2 salted anchovies (if salted are unavailable use anchovies in oil)
1 packet of saffron
1 medium onion sliced finely
olive oil, pepper and salt.

Method

Cut the cauliflower (or broccoli) into small pieces and boil in abundant salted water. When nearly cooked remove the cauliflower and reserve the water for cooking the pasta.

While the cauliflower is cooking sauté the onion in a large pan with abundant oil. Add the pine nuts, sultanas, and the saffron after dissolving it in a small amount of tepid water. Leave it for a few moments to combine the flavours and then add the pieces of cauliflower. (At this point you could start cooking the pasta in the boiling cauliflower water.) Turn the flame up high, add pepper and salt to taste and finally add a ladle of the water used to cook the cauliflower.

When the pasta is cooked “al dente” (this means it should still be firm in the centre of the pasta) drain and combine with the prepared cauliflower. Leave to “rest” for about 10 minutes.

While waiting Montalbano would enjoy an antipasto of green olives, Caciocavallo (a mild cheese, in the form of a gourd, that has a waxy consistency) and passuluna (salt cured black olives seasoned with oil, oregano, and perhaps a few garlic cloves).

Pasta with Broccoli can be served tepid or, if desired, returned to the flame for a moment to bring to a warm serving temperature.

A mild cheese can be grated over the pasta when served. Do not add parmesan as the strong cheese flavour would overpower the delicate flavours of the dish. A little extra vergin olive oil can be drizzled over the pasta when serving.

Optionally, instead of the saffron a spoonful of tomato concentrate can be used. In Sicily it is not unusual for a handful of toasted bread crumbs (tosted in a pan with a smear of olive oil) to be added just before serving or sprinkled over the top when served. This adds a little extra flavour and "crunch" to the dish.

Enjoy with a glass of crisp white wine.