Just did my bevel box mounting kit upgrade as my bank holiday mostly-still-lockdown task.
Day 1 was removing trim (including side panels to try and make the back panel easier to remove), finding a rats nest of duck tape holding the wiring for the heated seats under the gearbox cover, chatting to Terence from G56. Lots of rain stopping play though, and too much wind for an umbrella over the cockpit so car had to be pushed back in the garage several times!
Day 2 was disconnecting the bevel box, disconnecting and removing the NVH kit (what a load of ironwork!), then a real pain in terms of getting rid of mastic keeping the floor panel on! Sharp 2inch paint scraper lubricated with WD40 did the trick, mostly from under the car...
Phil's videos were great (I used an old Android tablet to run YouTube from the garage!).
Two questions though:
1/ any trick to line up the new bevel box mount? I centered it between the chassis tubes. The 2 forward bolts provide some alignment guidance but not much...
2/ on mine there was a rubber mount for the handbrake cable fixing it to the NVH forward strut. Presume its not worth drilling the chassis tube to bolt it there? Doesnt seem to be needed (a tie wrap might work to the propshaft cage).
Also the pain of removing mastic from the bottom panel made me wonder if a version of the front mount couldnt use a compression screw between 2 half tubes mating against the insides of the inner chassis tube pair - that way the floor would not need adjusting... but perhaps it would not have the required strength...
Day 3 will be adding the top mount (waiting for a hex spanner kit - my trusty allen key managed all others but couldnt budge the bevel box top bolts - will also need the hex sockets to use with my torque spanner). Probably will spend an hour trying to work out the wiring to the heated seats... and another 30mins trying the fit duct tape in a confined space!
Anyway thanks Phil!
Last edited by PaulV; 24/05/20 07:57 PM.
