Be sure to post a thread with all the progress, will be really interesting to read and see it progress.
I will keep my eyes open, what are you looking to spend?
Thanks Nick, I guess £25,000 for a suitable one - ie. one with as little as possible done to the vehicle since new in 2012/2013. Otherwise straight and clean ( unlike mine! ). Yes I intend to do a blow by blow video account of the whole process - I am really looking forward to this new way of working.
If you need me to have a look at anything AW has in stock I am but a stones throw, so always happy to pop in if they get something suitable.
Likewise if there are local private sales..
If you want to check the chassis for cracks then, as planenut says, familiarise yourself with where the cracks usually appear and do the following :-
1/. Wipe the area clean and spray the area with penetrating oil ( WD40 for example)
2/ Wait for 5 minutes and then wipe away all of the surface spray residue.
3/ take some powdered French chalk - the sort of thing you use on an inner tube before fitting a tyre or rub any piece of chalk on sandpaper to produce a powder - Blow the powder over the area where the cracks appear and if a crack its present t will magically develop as a stain in the chalk.
This is only a DIY version of professional crack detection but much better than the naked eye inspection and usually shows up cracks you otherwise won't see.
One of our problems is that, in the UK, repairs to motor chassis and body shells must be done by welding, if the vehicle is to pass an MOT test. A well designed brazed repair is much stronger and leaves no heat affected zone or localised stresses. A motor manufacturer obviously has to abide by the rules. I cheat!
That is a great tip Phil, something I must do when I remember!
I too am concerned if I ever get any issues they might not have chassis left to repair it.
