Originally Posted by SimonH
Originally Posted by cerealsurfer
So a good fantasy thread would be... if you were doing the GTR - how would you do it?


Well if we’re stuck with using the S5 Aero chassis, then it’s a bit floppy forward of the bulkhead

A sheer plate/undertray under the engine bay (Chris L did I have a clue what he was doing with the S1) and a tubular cruciform over the engine would help...
And a roll cage tying the front suspension inputs to the rear suspension would help tremendously and stop the whole feeling like two halves...

It doesn’t need more power
Some design detail taking weight out could save circa 50 kilos for negligible production cost

The wing vents in the sketches are leaning in the right direction, but there’s none in the rear arches to prevent drag there....


I’d want a better wiper motor than a 1950’s Land Rover so at least I could see where I was heading away from backwards in the wet.... scared

More feel through the steering

And bin the standard exhaust manifolds and system- they’re completely strangling the engine....


How about.. take a blank chassis... mill up an approx 50x50cm mounting plate to attach to the bulkhead - tap and die the back end of a dry-sumped S62 motor (for endurance reliability... not just for its extra hp) and attach.. harad mounting the engine to the bulkhead - result is moving it back and down. Move back engine mounts accordingly and build a spider frame to mount front of motor to forward chassis arms.

Use a small fly and clutch pack. Short input shaft Drenth D400 or Hewland H or SGT and hard mount to the rear of the bulkhead plate. Flat floor engine bay (I thought the removal of that from the S1 was a retrograde step).

As for manifolds... in this set-up... from the exhaust ports, run long primaries forward 4-1 style into a vertically mounted cross over collector at the front of the motor.. then back down the LHS into the Left/NS wing. Ceramic coating from the primaries back

Run a Motec M190/M880 (or similar) with digital dash and run a solid state programmable PDU with all the switches built in.

Make suitable horizontal baffles to mount to the inner bonnet to split the heat zones... run the air intake to the base of the windscreen... I've always seen forward facing intakes on the Aero chassis being squashed over the top of the radiator in the small gap below the cowl. seems odd.

As for the body work... agree.. a few more vents would be handy.... one area learned from the SuperSport GT racers was the height of the roof and angle of the windscreen... it would be great to lower the drivers seat as much as possible and attempt an increase in windscreen rake whilst also lowering the overall roof line by a couple of inches.

On the rear diff... get a cooler in place on it and also site a cooler for the gearbox.

The diffuser could also extend slightly more... even on a road car you are allowed upto 100mm protrusion from recollection......and what about the rear wing!

I recall the earlier wishbones needed plate welding to stop them flexing under race conditions... obvs all that would need to be looked into..... ideally given its a GTR... carbon ceramics on the braking side of things. Centre lock and mag wheels.

Totally agree on the cage and also the addition of air-jacks on the front and rear bulkhead anchor plates.



In my more radical moments I have even thought about adding 6x3 inch ducts from the front of the inner wheel arch area through to the slope behind the wheel (but on the inside near the bonnet).... the intention it to help with the slab front of the front bodywork and also re-purpose the apex of the wing parabola as a dive plane.. so adding front end downforce rather than the lift it currently creates.

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