Been working on this and now have it all sorted with some help from Facebookers.... There are 6 main bolts holding the main hood frame to the bodywork, two on each side going back from door to rear, and two on the straight run under the rear window to rear scuttle. All are accessible from the inside of the car once interior trim panels from tension winders to the rear storage area are removed. All of which are simple cross head wood screws. This also allows access to the terminal connection to the heated rear screen which needs to be disconnected. With the hood winder handles disconnected from the metal hood frame hinge bolts and washers removed and set aside, all that remains is to remove the 6 off, 10mm nuts and washers on the main hood frame bolts that pass down through the bodywork and with a helping pair of hands lift the whole lot off carefully not scratching the paint with the projecting bolts that are captive in the hood frame.
Having got it all on the floor it makes life so much easier to repair broken cables (6 lengths/sections) 4 of which on mine had snapped. I have fixed them using the brass connectors that are within electrical choc block, cutting them out and making use of the connector to reclamp the ends of snapped cables together and making sure the tightening screws are pointing away from the hood so not to cause a puncture over time.
The extreme end of my wooden hood main frame that curves down at the door openings and holds the side pop button fastener had also delaminated so I was able to locally remove the netting cover material and using wood glue with temporary g-clamps repair the delaminated timber formed section to make good again before re-fitting the material.
Having the hood complete assembly off and on the floor in the lounge makes life so very much easier, in fact I don't think you could repair some of the usual failings with the hood on the car.
Thanks for everyone's help on this forum and Fb....very much appreciated and hope this helps anyone else with the same problems to sort.
