I find the whole discussion here basically very instructive and exciting. Let's keep in mind that actually all participants in this thread have understood the principle of the Morgan front axle. That wasn't always the case, by the way. A few years ago there were a few members who didn't want to believe that when pressure is applied by springs on two sides to a point in their center it is the same as a parallel connection of two springs.
How someone achieves his individual optimum of the chassis with the right choice and tuning of the springs corresponds to personal preference. I can fully respect anyone here who has chosen the Peter Ballard front suspension package solution...with all the fine tuning possibilities. I myself just bought 140 pound springs and steering bearings from Peter Mulberry for my little 4/4. The correct length of springs was critical and for many years this setting has worked almost perfectly. The rebound springs only come into play when the car is rebounding or cornering. I haven't had to readjust anything main springs outside of replacing the kingpins either. Maybe because my 4/4 is so lightweight.
Of course, someone may say that 140 pounds of springs is quite a bit for a 4/4. But I feel very comfortable with the controlled firm suspension in the front (which also is compliant enough for my taste) and a slightly more comfortable setup in the rear. By the way, with the lowering blocks removed (plus longer shocks and more clearance for rear suspension deflection) and that's what I learned from your website, Lorne, where you are referring to the 4/4 Sports. My one is not a Sports but a later Sigma model with a spare wheel and a luggage rack…but MMC kept to use the lowering blocks even if the car had added weight again.


'14 4/4 graphite grey