Originally Posted by Stevo666
Couple of points:

The existing vertical rectifier tab normally needs removal or at least half of it - depends on what/how the factory (or dealer) had welded in place - otherwise it fouls the upper rubber part.

Rectifier position - the stock wiring will fit if the rectifier is mounted on the body as per Bunny instructions - but if using the std MMC rectifier then you need to adapt the plate and get rid of the bobbins so it mounts near flush to bodywork. Only cause for concern when mounting the rectifier to the bottom engine mount bracket as you have, is that it will still vibrate a little more than direct chassis fix and as we all know vibrations kill these rectifiers. Therefore by taking the vibrations out of the equation then the rectifiers will hopefully last longer, hence why all the mounts fitted by me are mounted to the body.
Unless your a Euro 4 car - upgrade rectifier to HD version if funds allow.

Also - the alloy spacers - regardless of engine height - you need to try different amounts either side - the rear cylinder side will always need 1 x as a minimum - the other side rarely. Check clearance on rear cylinder/frame - steering rack/chassis and starter motor/tunnel. Every chassis has different measurements banghead

Glad to see you notice the difference in driving experience as everyone who has had it fitted makes the same remarks.

Big thanks to Paul Rand (ex 5 speeder and ex S3 owner) who designed and developed this kit 4/5 years ago and then when I fitted it to mine 2/3 years ago, I was so impressed with the vibration reduction that thought it would be good to make it available to a much wider audience, so in association with Paul, I made a few tweaks to the design for ease of installation and now its a highly recommended upgrade fitted to numerous m3w's in EU, UK and now USA cheers

Thanks - indeed - I did need to trim the vertical regulator mount tab - it was tight against the new mount (see pic). A bit of time with a cut-off wheel and now corrected! As is said, anything worth doing is worth doing 2 or 3 times :-)

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On the spacers, In checking, my rear (right) cylinder was pretty close to the chassis, although didn't seem to be hitting. But I installed one spacer to get a bit more room. However, the stud at the top of the mount isn't long enough to catch the nylon locking part of the nut, and it certainly doesn't have enough threads to install two spacers. A bit of blue Loctite and we're OK with one installed. Perhaps this run of mounts has a shorter top stud for some reason?

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Significant improvement - worth it in my opinion!