Talk Morgan Forums Thread Like Summary - M3W Services motor mounts

Has anyone here installed the M3W Services anti vibration motor mounts which replace the original Morgan Motors mounts? They’re currently out of stock but I was told they would be on order soon. I’m most interested in how well they quell the vibration and if the cost of approx 980 pounds is worth the investment.

Will

Several of us have had these fitted recently and they make a significant difference, the vibration is much reduced and the car feels more refined.

My main reason for having them fitted is that anything which reduces the stress on the chassis has to be a good thing for the longevity of the car and as I do pretty high mileages so this will make a difference.

Note, the regulator needs to be relocated to the front of the body and if you've not changed to a Harley type already then you will have to have this done as well.

Jep
Is that not the whole point - allow the engine to move rather than like the original MMC mounts which transferred all that rocking to the chassis?

Yes I installed ours as I was trying to get it done before we went to Grindelwald last summer and Craig was flat out with other work.

The whole process is helped by having an engine crane to support the weight of the engine using a brace between the big bolts on the top.

You also have to factor in that the regulator needs to be moved - a good opportunity to move it to the front of the boywork where it gets less exposure to vibration. @Bunny gave some guidance on how/where to do this in a post a year or so ago. (https://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/782035/re-voltage-question#Post782035)

Getting the OEM mounts out is fiddly as lots of things get in the way esp if you have big hands(!) - various bits of wiring harness need to be unclipped - and each mount only comes out in a particular way. It helped a lot that I had had the engine out a year or two before to do the Bleazey Centa conversion and so Phil's video gives some hints on getting the old mounts out.

After that, installation of the new mounts went OK.

In summary, yes you can do it yourself!

If you look at the literature on the S&S X-Wedge, there is provision for a top mount for use in a bike frame. On the M3W, these are unused and often hidden under the fan cowl. A couple of chunky bolts into the cyliner head doing very little in our application. I made a simple metal strat to go between the two with a hoop for the engine crane hook. See Phil B's video on engine removal () at around 30 mins for an example.

Couple of points:

The existing vertical rectifier tab normally needs removal or at least half of it - depends on what/how the factory (or dealer) had welded in place - otherwise it fouls the upper rubber part.

Rectifier position - the stock wiring will fit if the rectifier is mounted on the body as per Bunny instructions - but if using the std MMC rectifier then you need to adapt the plate and get rid of the bobbins so it mounts near flush to bodywork. Only cause for concern when mounting the rectifier to the bottom engine mount bracket as you have, is that it will still vibrate a little more than direct chassis fix and as we all know vibrations kill these rectifiers. Therefore by taking the vibrations out of the equation then the rectifiers will hopefully last longer, hence why all the mounts fitted by me are mounted to the body.
Unless your a Euro 4 car - upgrade rectifier to HD version if funds allow.

Also - the alloy spacers - regardless of engine height - you need to try different amounts either side - the rear cylinder side will always need 1 x as a minimum - the other side rarely. Check clearance on rear cylinder/frame - steering rack/chassis and starter motor/tunnel. Every chassis has different measurements

Glad to see you notice the difference in driving experience as everyone who has had it fitted makes the same remarks.

Big thanks to Paul Rand (ex 5 speeder and ex S3 owner) who designed and developed this kit 4/5 years ago and then when I fitted it to mine 2/3 years ago, I was so impressed with the vibration reduction that thought it would be good to make it available to a much wider audience, so in association with Paul, I made a few tweaks to the design for ease of installation and now its a highly recommended upgrade fitted to numerous m3w's in EU, UK and now USA

Perhaps this run of mounts has a shorter top stud for some reason? -
No - its a standard production part so they all come with same length studs. You can try shallow Nyloc nuts and of course lose the washer under the nut if needed (as per the rest of the MMC build..) or use a serrated flange nut?
Without a spacer washer that side it is possible for the cylinder to tap the frame cornering to the left.
Its a bit of trial and error for clearance - as like I have said before - the chassis are all different.

Stevo: I would also like to install the M3W Services motor mounts. If possible, kindly send me information.
Thank you.

It does make engine removal easier once these engine mounts have been fitted as you can leave both frame parts attached to their relevant mountings - only the rubber damper part needs to be removed.

yes