Ah linklaw, I found adjusting the hood for fit didn't effect fit at the rear hood bonnet catches as they operate on a separate rotation. I made the initial adjustment with the rear catches closed and adjusted the hood until it was just slightly too tight to fit the header rail to the screen top. I then released the rear catches and fitted the header rail to the screen. You can now adjust the frame if needed so that when you apply a small amount of pressure the the rear section there is about an inch of gapping between the rear hood frame and the body. This then allows you to slam the rear hood frame down into the lock position and tightens the hood perfectly.
I did have to make an adjust ment to the hole size on one side. Old round file in a cordless drill.
Point to remember.... how vulnerable screens are to cracking. You may recall how owners were reporting cracked screens, not that long ago in fact, some appearing overnight when stationary and others when the screen/pillers are used as support to enter or exit the car. So a compromise is required so as not to stress the screen.
I have also found when working on many Classics that the screen pillars to scuttle mounting fixings are nearly always loose yet the screen appears reasonably secured. You can only assess this by removing the three dash screws and rolling the dash forward... don't forget the two small screws each side holding the lower plastic trim on some models as well!!!
If this is the case with your car, with the hood folded back loosen all the screen pillar fixings then adjust the screen position for best fit to the scuttle that won't stress the screen when re tightened.
Lastly adjust the hood to pillar locking clips. They need to be just tight enough to stop the header rail from riding up yet not so tight as to feel like you are holding a Land Rover bonnet down. Just the merest resistance as the toggle enters its lock position. If it feels tight to close then it's too tight!
Last edited by sewin; 17/11/25 12:00 PM.
