My only point is, in the photo I referred to on Gomog showing the drain plug bolt, the washer appeared to be aluminium not copper. If that is the case according to the internet the way to check you have achieved the correct temperature for annealing aluminium is, first hold the component near to a lit candle to cover it with soot.
Hi Zach,
I use Morgan images from everywhere. That one was from Wolf Performance (aka Cajn Poulton).
Frankly, for the last 35 years I use PTFE Teflon tap on the threads of every plug on liguid junction. This allows me to avoid
the most common mistake of amateurs..namely over-tightening. Our bunch shear bolts, ruin threads and worse every time we touch something in the beginning. I use teflon tape (used to be called "plumber's tape") but now savvy automobile mechanics use it and it comes in a petrol-safe version (yellow). The dire warnings of old timers 30 years ago that it would cause damage, never panned out..though you must wrap the tape properly. which the internet will explain 1000 times. I have never had an issue using it on any of my cars and I'm clumsy.
The tape solves the problem of torque, rust and seals with non-precise threads.
https://www.accu.co.uk/ptfe-tape/768152-HPTFET-PTFE-YI have updated the BTR fluids section once again. Essentially the open axle and LSD use the same
base fluid but the LSD axles should have the friction modifier especially those from 1999 on. On the other hand, if you accidentally use the friction modifier in an open or non-LSD axle, it will not cause harm.
Lorne
