Well fellow fly fisher. Keeping it clean and inspections are good as Dave said. If it gets dirty let it dry then use a brush. ACf-50 is a great penetrant so start here, spray that in and around all seems and cavities. Now here's the thing, it dries, it's meant too! so let it, I'd give it a couple of weeks before commensing to the wax treatment.
I have tried all wax options and in my opinion Dinitrol is the best. Black under the Morgan is the trad used by the factory so I use that rather than clear. Make sure you are happy with the chassis before applying it, in that there's no loose paint or heavy rust. Here's a top tip, if you need to remove loose paint or rust (gained from a lifetime of experience!) Scrape it off and sand it clean then treat all bare or metal surfaces retaining evidence of rust to a brush on coat of hammerite kurust, paints on like water and when dry turns any rust remaining to a black solid finish. Don't be tempted by the spray version as it's like a lacquer and leaves a soft finish.... nowhere near as tough as the liquid which is solid like the metal itself. It will also protect the metal surface and prevent further rusting.
Now don't go painting it prior to waxing, it is the paint that causes all the ongoing problems. I've been a Land Rover man all my life and it's the poorly prepared chassis' during manufacture which have been painted that cause the chassis to just keep on rusting no matter how hard you try and stop it and how diligently you apply the wax. The chassis already had loose paint before the car hit the showroom and the moisture had already got under the paint and started its evil mission. So, the chassis starts to rust under the paint and wax and eventually blows the paint and it's wax coating off revealing a rusty surface starting especially at weld areas.
As a young man I wondered what the hell I was doing wrong and it drove me to despair! but life passed and I worked it all out and that was that GKN failed to clean the metal properly of it's protective oils and splashed a bit of satin black chassis paint over that so it was destined to fail and quickly too!
So let's look at your car. The coating you have is a great improvement on the sprayed on earlier examples but nonetheless it's no match for galvanising. So your first task is as I have already said... preparation finishing with ACF-50.. When ready to move to the next stage you will need two types of Dinitrol wax. The first is a lighter version designed to penetrate between gaps in seams and is good for internal cavities as well... it gives confidence in knowing that even though you cannot see your efforts you know the wax will creep into every possible gap and surface and it tends to remain slightly softer than the next coat which is a harder under body coating. Again though, I'd leave it a week between these coats as the first will need a little time to really do its job of creeping everywhere.
The best way to apply it is using the Shultz gun cartridge system and an air compressor, buy the gun from them as well as it has the best spray pattern which is adjustable and allows you to spray like a pro even if you have never done anything like it before. it also comes with the screw on flexible lance to allow you to apply it into cavities ir difficult to reach areas. You only need a cheap compressor which you can use to blow tyres up when you have finished the job but every few years I find it good to apply a 50/50 mix of wax and white spirit to the surface as it helps keep the wax to retain enough ability to creep if damaged and self repair small exposed areas.
Now you might think this is starting to sound expensive, well nothing is cheap but if you got someone who really knows what they are doing and applies it correctly then your bill will come in close to a thousand pounds, well the best part of it anyway. I could get you quotes for £350 all over the place but I guarantee it'll probably be a waste of money. Look up a company called before and after and he'll explain it so much better. He'll do an excellent job. give a 10 year guarantee and if anything does go amiss he'll repair and retreat it, Last time I looked, about ten years ago it was £875. I do my own as I'm ...well, obsessed with doing it correctly. I have literally just finished my recently imported from Japan, new Jimny and It was the most difficult and involved vehicle I have ever taken on. The Morgan in comparison is a doddle with no real hiding places. most important areas to make sure you get right are:
Wing to body seams, rear cross member behind rear wheels, the rear, very rear ash timber crossmember where the rear number plate can be mounted. and the triangular Webb chassis strengtheners at the fire was/ bulkhead. There is more to consider here with your vehicle as it has come to light that these Webbs are a problem with 2015 cars on.
I'm happy to help if you would like to discuss anything in greater detail. Martin
