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Joined: Apr 2013
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Yep I've had the same thing happen to me a few times, once causing a very near miss , hence my earlier comment that an inexperienced driver could have serious problems.

I do a regular 60 mile journey mainly on bumpy B roads , all the cars I use take around the same time, but no matter how hard I try (!) the three wheeler takes around 15 minutes longer because it can't cope with the bumps.


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BTW one of the other cars is a 1974 Volvo 144 automatic. ...


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How did you get the bottom bolt out of the rear dampers?
BTW I can't see MMC supplying these as a free fix for bump steer if they can get £520 +vat out of everybody.

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Can the kit be installed before taking delivery?my m3w is a build week41

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Well that's it CMB u r right- and MMC will take this line I am sure - that is ...if u feel yr car needs this "upgrade" then it's available .

Personally I am not sure as my car has Suplex shocks and handles ok - not perfect but ok. So am going to think about this - knowing me I will probably go for the Front end. - I think the rear is fine.


Neil

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Originally Posted By Q8morgan
Can the kit be installed before taking delivery?my m3w is a build week41

We had GAZ shocks fitted by Aero Racing before we took delivery of the car. Write and ask for a quote on fitting the kit. I think it must be fitted after the car is finished however as cars in the manufacturing section must comply with the homologation specifications. They are then taken to Aero Racing for fitting "after market" components such as different shocks and exhaust systems etc.


Peter

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Sounds like you can adjust the suspension so there's a greater clearance between track rod and exhaust pipe too - is that right? My nearside track rod currently bangs exhaust much too often on bumps although offside is basically ok.

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These 3 wheelers don't seem to suffer from bump steer or front suspension problems



Peter

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Hmm, I'd want to wear my leathers, gloves etc at those speeds. One front wheel trike handling is very odd if you not used to it (a camber follower).


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To get the bottom bolts out of the rear dampers, you remove the top bolts(car supported on a jack) then raise the car until the swing arm is lower than the fuel tanks to gain access to the bolts. There is no need to touch the tension on the belt.

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