Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Fuel pump issue on 2013 M3W

My pump showed the same symptoms as yours. It quit. Later worked briefly and then quit for good. Lori at Mid-Atlantic Morgan(717)932-6600 could tell you what they replaced. It must not be a common part. The factory didn't have any spares and finally pulled one off a car under production.

86Mog,

Do you by chance have an 86 Morgan with the Twin Cam Fiat engine?
I have a 2.0 litre here in AZ.

I need to look at the fuel pump on my 3 Wheeler--I assume it is a Bosch unit.

I think I spoke to you at Luray. The fuel pump may have been giving you a problem then. Expecting my M3W from Lori at Mid-Atlantic Morgan any day now. I hope Morgan sorted the fuel pump problem by now.

I had the same problem. Gas pump HS. It was replaced by a bosch pump installed originally on motorcycles DUCATI.

Update (includes make and model of fuel pump):

>>CAUTION - DO THIS OUTSIDE AWAY FROM FLAMES OR SPARKS <<<

Note, I do not have a place to store photos so if anyone want photos, send me a request with an email address.


To access the fuel pump's electrical connector for testing:

First remove the fuel lines: push in the small tab at the very edge of one side of the connector with a flat head screw driver, then pull off the fuel line (have a rag under it to catch a dribble of gas). You will want to loosen the fuel filter first to allow the front line to slip away.

Then remove the black plastic cover: This is a two part cover with a small center section partially covering the fuel connectors. This smaller piece is silicone sealed onto the larger cover and is also taped at one end with electrical tape. A small knife will be handy to cut the through the seal (carefully). It's is actually quite easy once you see how it is done.

Remove the black cover and you will see two electrical connectors on the top of the assembly- one is in use for power, the other is not (presumably it is used for the fuel level sender that this fuel assembly usually comes with but is deleted as the M3W has a VDO fuel sender next to the pump assembly).

Testing:

Using a Calterm brand 12 volt light tester, I confirmed there is power at the fuel pump connector for about 4 seconds each time the ignition is turned on. I understand the relay cuts power after that if the CPU does not detect the starter or engine are in operation. So power = good.

Then I used a Micronta 22-188 digital multimeter to test the pump's electrical connector for continuity (AKA: broken wire) No continuity! This means the wiring from the fuel pump housing connector to the fuel pump is either disconnected, shorted, bad or the electric fuel pump itself is bad. The next step is to remove, inspect and replace the fuel pump assembly if there are no loose connections inside.


To remove the fuel pump assembly:

Spin off the round metal ring that holds the fuel pump assembly to the tank. This has stamped on it "BMW 6 762 417" which is a BMW part number just for the metal ring, it is NOT the fuel pump assembly part number (verified this at the BMW dealer).

Once the ring is off, look closely at the edge of the white assembly top, you will see the following three sets of letters/numbers:

WFX 101020
25 169 266
221824/055/010

The first set "WFX 101020" is the part number for the entire assembly and if you search the Internet gets you a Delphi brand fuel pump meant for a Land Rover Discovery. This part looks exactly like our fuel pump assembly but adds a fuel sender float. Cost is about $375

Removal is simple after this: lift the assembly out of the tank, allowing it to drain before complete removal. Some twisting is needed to coax it clear but it is not tricky. Don't let the top rubber seal fall into the tank.

I went a bit further and unsnapped the lower bucket from the entire assembly and removed the actual motor, disconnecting the power and fuel line. Again I tested the motor directly for continuity, it was dead. Interesting to see about a quarter of a teaspoon of aluminum metal shavings in the bottom of the bucket and on the intake screen.

Now to see if my Morgan dealer will be able to get me a replacement under warranty by allowing me to just bring in the dead fuel assmbly.....

Update

Ordered fuel pump (pump only, not entire assembly) from Miami British for US $ 175. Hopefully it will pop right into the plastic housing and hook up correctly. Then I'm back in business!

Sorry to hear its still off the road, forgive my question but why haven't you ordered one through your dealer under warranty?

I know your dealer is not that close to you but are they not closer than Miami?

Expediency. Another owner posted it took 6 weeks to get the part from the factory. The pump I bought took 4 days. My dealer will reimburse me when it is installed and working. I am waiting for one small electrical connector and will then install it in a few days with a full report and all details.

update to the fuel pump replacement on my Three wheeler:

Success!

Received the fuel pump from Miami British. This is JUST the motor, not the entire fuel pump assembly/bucket. It looks exactly like a Delphi FE0113 fuel pump which you can get for 1/3 the cost anywhere else - though I am not sure if the pump pressure is the same.

It is a bit longer, has a plastic output tube vs the brass one on the original unit and has a different electrical connector than my stock unit. I was able to purchase Duralast fuel pump harness connector #639 (aka: AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1P1271) and soldered it onto the existing wiring after cutting off the OEM connector.

Fitting the fuel pump into the bottom of the fuel pump assembly bucket: Press on the filter screen/sock to the pump. Then fit the pump into the bucket - it is not an exact fit, but once you place it inside and snap the bucket back onto the rest of the fixture it all is held in place very snugly. You will not need the LOWER rubber spacer that the OEM unit needs.

All that is left to do is to slip the top rubber grommet (from the original unit) over the plastic output tube. This further snugs up the fitting. Then source and slip a new metal fuel line clamp over the old fuel line (NOT the typical worm drive clamp) but this type: http://www.envcoglobal.com/catalog/product/tube-fittings/fuel-line-tubing-clamp.html

You want a real fuel line clamp as it evenly closes around the fuel line and onto the output tube - ensuring a snug fit that won't loosen. The old style worm-clamps do not screw down in a perfect circle like fuel specific clamps do. Also the original fuel pump does not use a clamp as the fuel line is a tight friction fit over the barbed brass output tube and so does not use a clamp.

Once you have the proper clamp, loose, over the fuel line, press the fuel line onto the fuel pump's output tube as far as you can, push the top grommet down to help snug it up, then lower the hose clamp into place and tight securely (not too tight).

Attach the newly soldered electrical connector to the pump, be sure to coil the spare wire slack around the support shaft, and you are ready to re-install the whole assembly back into the tank.

Note on putting the entire assembly back in: the fuel pump assembly's rubber seal is a bit tricky to slip on, take your time to make sure it is on properly all the way around. When you put the black plastic cover back on, I did not use silicone seal around the fuel lines, just lots of vinyl tape. Just in case....

After snapping the fuel lines back on, don't forget to tighten the bolt you loosened on the fuel filter (to allow the lines to move away from the pump).

I have plenty of photos and this may sound long and involved but once you take it apart (take photos!) it makes sense and the repair is very straight forward. If you don't know how, or do not have a soldering iron, I suppose crimp on butt connectors would work.

Email me if you want fotos: ferrisL at Yahoo.com

Great to hear and thanks for sharing.