old one has similar internals to this H D version: eg lobed cam sliders and a great bigs spring. Torque reaction forces inner cam slider to move laterally along shaft and against spring. Outer cam slider stays in position and is connected to drive shaft clutch side.
Wow, that's quite a list, a little depressing to hear all those complaints. Mine, built Sept.2013, is waiting for me at the dealership and I'm told that some, but not all of the 2014 improvements can be retrofitted at some cost. If this was a Ford or Chevy, I would tell the dealer to keep it and I'd order the new version. However; it is basically paid for and I don't want to put my dealer in a bad position as they have been very good to me and, they didn't build or engineer the vehicle. Also, they have made a number of modifications on the cars that have come through them to rectify, at least some of the problems. Any opinions?
Wow, that's quite a list, a little depressing to hear all those complaints. Mine, built Sept.2013, is waiting for me at the dealership and I'm told that some, but not all of the 2014 improvements can be retrofitted at some cost. If this was a Ford or Chevy, I would tell the dealer to keep it and I'd order the new version. However; it is basically paid for and I don't want to put my dealer in a bad position as they have been very good to me and, they didn't build or engineer the vehicle. Also, they have made a number of modifications on the cars that have come through them to rectify, at least some of the problems. Any opinions?
The problem with any enthusiast forum Larry, is that people go off at such tangents often firing from the hip.
There are some changes & modifications to the 2014 build cars, maybe not all are entirely necessary or they would be on some form of recall notice, but as you can read on here, all provoke a reaction of some sort.
My advice would be to hold your ground, and select only the modification upgrades you personally feel worthwhile.
Will it change how you feel about your buying experience? Yes, undoubtedly & that's a communications issue. Your contract is with the supplying dealer. It is they who should be leaping up on your behalf in case you do actually cancel your order with them.
Your negotiation skills will come to the fore with your dealer about paying for your chosen upgrades, after all you both stand to lose.
It's a very sad and unsatisfactory situation the way it's been handled.
I think all the mods can be retro fitted. Some of the problems of early cars seem more common than others. Bevel box noise is common whereas torque compensator failure is more rare. Bump steer universal but not quite as bad on very early cars. Worn undersides of seats etc shouldn't happen and is a result of some sloppy design. Don't worry too much about the rest of the list. It is just that: a wish list. They do need quite a bit of fettling, but some of that is part of the fun. Once driving(probably best done with bump steer fix) you will forgive Morgan for most of the niggles
Wow, that's quite a list, a little depressing to hear all those complaints. Mine, built Sept.2013, is waiting for me at the dealership and I'm told that some, but not all of the 2014 improvements can be retrofitted at some cost. If this was a Ford or Chevy, I would tell the dealer to keep it and I'd order the new version. However; it is basically paid for and I don't want to put my dealer in a bad position as they have been very good to me and, they didn't build or engineer the vehicle. Also, they have made a number of modifications on the cars that have come through them to rectify, at least some of the problems. Any opinions?
I wouldn't worry too much Larry, I have a mid October build date, so I also have a car without any of the newer mods...bump steer is an issue for me on bad roads at high speeds, and I spend most of my time on good roads at 45-55 mph. It's a great car and fits my needs, I certainly wasn't expecting perfection (its a Morgan...).
Take delivery and drive her for a while, add the upgrades as you see fit along the way.
Personally if I do anything it'll probably be the compensator first, bump steer fix second. I don't like the look of the cooling fan, but I may need it during Texas summers...
It fits between the battery and the 2 positive leads and I used the little straight link to space it away from the terminal.
On reflection I'll probably rewire it with a new short battery lead so it can be strapped to the side of the battery.
I found that it needs the engine on wire connecting and I've run this to an existing relay socket in the fusebox. Again, I'll probably rewire this or add the optional vibration sensor instead.
The remote control simply connects/disconnects the battery so I can leave it in a garage without power for extended periods.
When reconnecting the immobiliser light flashes fast for about 10-15 seconds then reverts to the normal slow flash. Ignition on, wave the immobiliser over the key and it fires up as normal.
Here are some
I added a 6" battery strap so I could cable tie the unit to the battery.
The small white wire is the antenna for the remote and the coiled black wire goes to a live when ignition on connector in the fusebox. This prevents the unit disconnecting when the engine is running.
