Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Three Wheeler Petrol Guage

Thanks for the warning about the wire loom chaff problem and the photos, always good to hear of potential problems. A 5 minute check is better than a breakdown or worse. Brave move taking the body off, how long did it take and how many helpers did you need to lift it off? Not thinking of doing it (for many years) but it is good to know what is needed and things to look out for.

A good watch point for owners. Thanks for sharing.

It's a breeze for those who had to Forever usually dismantled its motorcycles , it takes less than two hours apart carrossrie the right , despite what weighs about 17 kg without the front cover and back, it would be possible to own the second time , the bodywork is attached with two screws btr 5 mm at the front under the hood, two screws btr 5 mm to the rear of the chassis extremmité the outer side and below four screws on the circles on each side at the same level of power cable crushed by the bodywork . Must be considered before disconnecting the battery, remove the oil and Looked tank, steering column, rear electric undoes faisseau , hoses and fuel filler canister screwed, only eight screws for fixing the bodywork on the chassis and 18 stainless steel pop rivets unpainted removed after the hardest is to blow the heads of the rivet itself without damaged plastic washers and the bodywork , why he drilled slowly (350 rpm ) with 4 mm drill bit to stumbled on the stainless steel nail, then again with a 5 mm drill (350 rpm ) until the head detaches itself, , , Is the most annoying pop placed near front triangle because it is necessary for the damper dismantled especially pierced in the axis of the rivet, will be removed more easily by following the rivets which have been weakened by the bore 4 mm.I'll see can be edited for a manual removal if I find two people, one to come up with are tw and another person filmed disassembly should only lasted less than 2 hours preparing everything in advance.Notice to interested amateurs to come with her ​​tw.

the photo with the red arrow is where the electric cable rubs.Someone will have sent the photo to morgan to tell them that everything is fine and that is the only problem that I managed to find, and that is the only change that is nescésaire for the rest I would put the radio a little harder to not hear the mechanical noises.

Thanks for all the body removal information and photos, it sounds fairly straight forward, although something I hope will not be needed for many years. I checked my wire loom route in the area you had problems and it looks OK. It goes through a cut out that yours must have missed on factory assembly, too tight through the P clips by the look of it. Nice Mustang, for those rainy days.

Just installed my new 28cm Sender Unit and it really is an easy job. I bought the fitting kit which the website said was needed, but that only seems to be for a fresh install, not a replacement. Haven't driven the car yet (still 60mph winds and rain/hail here in the South at present), but it works and still shows 100% as expected (tanks full). Fingers crossed for a better and more accurate run when fuel gets used up.....

I replaced my fuel sender with a VDO brand 280 mm unit from California Imports Limited www.cip1.com. Cost was $59

Installation was quite straight-forward. Be careful putting the steel screws back into the aluminum sheet metal - don't want to strip them.

The gauge now reads empty at about 180-190 miles. Much better than the 100 miles before, but there is still a gallon or two left. I am happy with this result, but if I would do it again, I would try a 290 mm unit.

I also just received my 280mm unit from cip1. After filling up last time the
factory unit read 100%. After stopping for lunch, it stopped working and has
not worked for two weeks and approx. 150 miles.

Will report back after installing.

BRGMog

Why wouldn't the wire loom be placed on the inside of the frame (no rubbing), is there something to prevent that?