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Well Conrad , it's all pretty confusing to me !

The last 3 digits of VIN (serial?) # are 213 , I got it mid Sept 2012 .

Tally Ho ! is the perfect way to sign off

Hugh

I just swapped mine out yesterday. A bit of a fiddle but I just took my time. The new sender came with helpful instructions. Went from 0% to 41% and when i looked down in the tank there certainly was plenty of fuel left.

A lovely surprise awaited me under the boot. While my car was at the factory they had chafed the tiny fiddly little screws that hold in the parcel tray / mudguard. Hey presto they now have hex machine screws that fit into threads in the frame, much better.

I too changed my "fiddly little screws" which fold the Boot in place soon after I had my car for Hex wood screws - sooo much easier to use! BTW they cost me £1 for a bag full of about 20 from a local shop!:)))

But the factory went a step further and put machined "receptors" into the wood frame

They are now the standard fit. My car, number 700, had them from new.

Maybe my M3W's number is not 700 as I though, that's the number that is stamped under the seat, on the bulkhead , boot lid etc. The last three on the VIN is 799, quite a difference.

I am sure the hard-stamped number under the seat is the best one to use, as the last 3 digits of the VIN number seem spurious at best and we know the story about the number in the wood under the boot being higher than the chassis' due to 'wastage'. I consider mine No.729 (under seat) and this has the inset mounts for the boot liner screws.

For what it's worth, by Ash Frame no. is 795 and VIN Digits 763....

Well my wooden frame is lower than the number under the seat ...
Vin 213 , under seat 334 , wooden frame 268 .

All very confusing !

The number under the RHS seat is the Chassis number:))

I think we need to loosely agree to use the chassis number and hopefully we can agree?