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Crowbar Offline OP
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Agreed blue...my dealer is trying to find a classics dealer in Texas that would be capable of handling warranty claims for Morgan, he's spoken to the factory and they're open to the idea of "certifying" such a dealer.

Stay tuned...thx for the TexMog link


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What work has to be done?bevel box or compenstor?

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Crowbar Offline OP
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Still not sure Q8...the videos have been forwarded to the factory - I'll post when I know.


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Any update on your noise problem Crowbar -was it the compensator?


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mmm this sounds just like Compensator rattle to me.

Not sure how much play should be in the drive shaft - some for sure - and IMO the vid does not show much.

I am with the Compensator vote!


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m3boy and others...you are all correct sirs...

The factory took a look at the video, sent it on to S&S, and both concluded that it is in fact the compensator, which is transmitting enough lumpy torque to the driveshaft to cause the low RPM rattle at the junction with the bevel box.

So my options are:

1) Replace the "faulty" compensator with an new identical compensator under warranty...not very appealing as the problem will likely recur.

2) Pony up for a new Centa compensator for around $470

3) Buy some Dynamat, insulate the rear firewall and transmission tunnel and live with it - as the car is otherwise fine. Frankly the rattle is barely noticeable when I drive with a passenger - so this may work.

I think I may try option #3 before shelling out for option #2.

Thanks to everyone for their input.

Cheers,

GC


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Well ... how 'bout that doh

Sort of a 'they all do that' response banghead

I have a bad feeling about this hide

Still ... Tally Ho Crowbar thumbs cheers








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Originally Posted By Crowbar
m3boy and others...you are all correct sirs...

The factory took a look at the video, sent it on to S&S, and both concluded that it is in fact the compensator, which is transmitting enough lumpy torque to the driveshaft to cause the low RPM rattle at the junction with the bevel box.

So my options are:

1) Replace the "faulty" compensator with an new identical compensator under warranty...not very appealing as the problem will likely recur.

2) Pony up for a new Centa compensator for around $470

3) Buy some Dynamat, insulate the rear firewall and transmission tunnel and live with it - as the car is otherwise fine. Frankly the rattle is barely noticeable when I drive with a passenger - so this may work.

I think I may try option #3 before shelling out for option #2.

Thanks to everyone for their input.

Cheers,

GC


Surely if the compensator is said to be faulty, why wouldn't it be replace with the updated version under warranty.


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Quote:
Surely if the compensator is said to be faulty, why wouldn't it be replace with the updated version under warranty.

Yes Deano...I wholeheartedly agree that is certainly one reasonable way to look at this issue doh

However, I understand that MMC's view is that the warranty covers the original compensator that came with the car - and from what others have reported, MMC appears to be willing to replace the old metal bushed compensators three or four times on the same car if needed. Seems penny wise and pound foolish to me...

My concern with upgrading to the new Centa unit is that the install is an 8 - 14 hr job, that probably involves essentially re-assembling the entire drivetrain. I suspect that an involved job like this at a dealer runs the risk of introducing new rattles and other niggles. The thread on owners who have installed the new Centa units http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/198623/How_s_your_Centa_compensator#Post198623 suggests that this may be the case - Big rattle gone, new little rattles added.

I'm going to sleep on this one for a few days...



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I had the same conundrum. However if enough lumpy torque is getting through to the bevel box, what is it doing to your gearbox.
I have the new Centa unit fitted. Centa are very well respected: they make compensators for outboards motors and ships. I spoke to the managing director and he told me the new design should be able to cope with much more power and torque.

I have to say that I do experience vibration in the car at different revs now. It is less metal on metal now which has to be a good thing. The vibration is worse when the engine is very hot. We are having a mini heatwave here in the UK and this is the first summer I have driven the 3W. The cooling kit is going on soon and I wonder if this will have an effect. The Engine does appear to get lumpy when hot. Also I had a cam-belt failure recently and although this is a non interference engine I do wonder if some sort of damage was done?
The original style compensators will; IMHO all fail at some point. They are not fit for purpose and there is plenty of evidence for that on motorcycle forums. At one point I was told that the units were not Harley or Screamin Eagle derived. I did reply that the sprocket shown in the parts manual was a bit of a giveaway.
The fact all new 3W's are being fitted with the new units means that Morgan don't consider the old units fit for purpose.
I would go for the new unit. Labour would be covered under warranty and the new unit is very easy to fit so shouldn't cause to much problems.
All the best
Matt

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