Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Belt noise

I have the same situation, when the belt is central on the pulley it touches the tyre. I have the old style pulley without an outer flange fitted.
When the outer face of the pulley is parallel with the belt (set with a straight edge) the belt runs on the outer edge of the pulley and gives about 3mm clearance between the belt and the tyre. So if the pulley had a flange fitted it would be in contact with the belt. This setup seems ok but I will get it checked out at the first service.
Another issue is that the wheel is not central with the bodywork of the car, it looks to be about 20mm off centre. Why is it off centre, Is there anything correct on this car?

That is normal with the early pulley , mine was the same .

The same applies with the rear wheel not being central , something to bear in mind when fitting a trailer mudguard .

quality is poor rear sprockets I traveled almost 4000km in a month and a half since replacement of parts under warranty and I see that the belt already 2.5mm game with the teeth of a crown, the first belt lasted 5 months and 10.000 km before the top teeth no longer as 1 mm, I think it'll replace faloir before a trip in August.


a hard anodizing might be improved a little life of its crowns aluminum pan kitchen.

The factory seem to have removed my flange on the outside of the rear sprocket.

Were you still getting the noise after the flange had been removed?

That's interesting donald. It does beg the question of whether the flange on the back wheel sprocket is necesary, as it is highly unlikely the belt will come off completely, although it seems to want to run with a couple of mm over the edge, where there is no flange, I'm not sure that will do any damage.

I tried an experiment this past week by dipping a rag into some 50w oil and just barely leaving a coat on the outer flange. Last time I used silicon it only lasted 15 miles. This time it lasted about 150 miles until the noise really starts to drill into your ear.

I believe that these parts were anodized originally but that hard aluminum may only be from a few microns thick to barely a couple of thousandths of an inch thick. It will wear and then when you hit the softer aluminum it just wears even faster!

Very frustrating! Don't want to take it to the dealer again as that means more down time. From what I hear they're having their share of problems dealing with Morgan corporate as well...

Spring is here and summer is almost upon us. Driving time is short in Vermont!

Donald
I hope an appropriate anaesthetic was used?

Calum you are going straight to .......

It is noisy with the flange and now without.

I applied some spray designed for belts on machinery pulleys and perhaps it makes less noise.

I now notice feedback through the pedals on change down.

I'm looking on the bright side as it is running OK and the roads in Provence were built for Edmund!

When I had the seat bulkhead panel out to change the BB oil recently I took the opportunity to check the drive belt and clean it as it has been squeaking a lot lately, particularly at slow speeds. Silicone spray works but only for a few miles. A Harley forum suggested more belt tension than the standard 5/8" deflection with a 10lbs load, I tried it and it was worse. Slightly less tension and the squeaking was gone, so that may be the way to go, along with a nice clean belt and gear wheels.

I think Dan Lockwood is correct with his suggestions he made earlier about belt alignment, so I also spent some time getting the alignment of the wheel square with the chassis and BB. Where to measure from is difficult as no two measurements seem to be the same but it seemed to be fairly central. I used a laser level along the edge of the rear wheel and targeted the rear face of the front number plate to align the rear wheel, front to rear. The swing arm adjusting nuts are solid on my car so the left and right alignment was not possible at the moment but it is quite good as it is. A winter job maybe.