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Joined: Aug 2013
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what would you guys think about adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to the mix of gear oil to flush the box? Others have suggested Diesel, someone told me the owners manual says flush it with petrol.


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I don't think it matters a lot.

Fuel oil will cut grease, gas will cut grease quicker. But fuel oil also offers "some" lubrication at the same time it's diluting the greasy goo substance that you guys have in your BB's.

Marvel Mystery Oil would also cut the goo and give some lubrication at the same time but probably not as fast as fuel oil would do.

"IF" I had a M3W, which everyone knows I don't, and was in this position, I would plan on running the rear tire many miles on jack stands to break down the goo without putting a lot of stress on anything at the same time. I would not use gas, but probably just plain fuel oil to do the diluting until clean. I would imagine this to take several cleanings to accomplish.

If anyone of you has ever drained the rear differential of a standard car, you know that even after tens of thousands of miles the oil is usually still oil, not greasy goo like in the BB's. This tells me that it's not anything in the function of the BB that's creating the goo, it must have started out as goo.

For the life of me though, I cannot imagine anyone ever putting grease in a gearbox like this and expect it to work at the high rpms and load this thing sees. Packing wheel bearings in grease is one thing, but gears at high speed is something entirely different.

Back to flushing out the BB. I see some of you have changed out fluids and then driven a few miles and changed again and just keep repeating this process. I think as JVS has done, he has been able to clean out the goo quite nicely in one major flushing process to a point he's comfortable and filled with heavy duty differential oil and drove the car. I would, as he's probably going to do or already has done, replace the oil one more time within a few hundred miles, but after that it should not be an issue again.

Anything with moly or graphite will turn the grease blacker, but it should not thicken it to goo.


Dan
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Hi all,
I am sorry if i sound like a broken record and that this is elementary to most of you, however i am still confused why there are three holes/caps for the bevel box.
could someone please clarify with reference to the attached picture;
A) which bolt/screw i take out so as to remove the old oil,
B) which hole i put the new oil in...
C) How i know that i have put enough oil in.
i have numbered the holes i am referring to on the attached picture which is a view of the bevel box from above and the back of the car.
Thanks


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My understanding ( happy to be corrected ) is
3 is the drain
2 is the filler
1 is a breather / overflow escape

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Yes it is right
I am just finishing to Check bevel box fill to prepare my trip to le Man classic

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Just finished my 1,000 mile service. Took 5 run, drain, fill, run cycles to empty the goo. Its all out. Did not use diesel or anything other than gear oil. Did run it between fills to heat the goo. Also was surprised that my compensator did not have a zerk for grease. My build date is 9/13 and chassis # is 986 I think.

And the first 20 mile drive, its as noisy now as before. Sort of let down.


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What happens if the grease goo is not drained out? For example, just topped up with a suitable gear oil. Not that I would do that of course ooo speakno


Paul
[At last, I have a car I can polish]
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Question what is the risk if you over fill the bevel box thinking the breather is the fill hole and fill to that level?


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I filled it tops at the breather,nothing happened

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thanks for the advice. i will see about changing the oil this week!

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