Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing shiney shiney

Cleaned the car at the weekend in preparation for St Tropez. Came up looking lovely with bog standard Auto Glym polish. Decided to top that with a coating of meiguars, which dissapointingly took a little of the shine off.

Feel confused, hey it still looks great, but beginning to wonder what the best way to keep the car looking lovely is.

Also, given that 50% is coated in armour fend, is it worth polish and wax on these areas?

Is there an idiots guide to polish, wax and armourfend out there as I suddenly realise I know none of the answers here!

Doesn't MMC recommend not waxing for 3 months after purchase?
A small problem with protective film - while in DK I left some bug remover on the film for perhaps a bit long - fortunately not the paint - which has etched the film!
Some gentle T-cut is helping restore the finish.

6-months iirc.

The theory is that the paint needs time to cure and therefore is still soft for up to 6-months. Part of the curing process is also the evaporation of certain chemicals used in the paint itself and the painting process.

My understanding is that polish can scratch the soft paint and wax can seal he surface, thus not allowing the necessary evaporation of chemicals.

You can buy wax for new cars, which is supposed to avoid the problem stated above, but I am not sure who sells it. A Google may unearth a reseller.

Excellent - a task that can be put off until next year

Mines a 2005, so waxing it no problem.

Is it the done thing to wax over the film? Does this affect the film? Or should I be leaving the film alone and waxing / polishing the rest?

Imagine my confusion at having vinyl over the film over the paint. Oh well, Ill just leave it dirty then

Replying with a (now) professional opinion....

I don't think the old theory about letting paint 'dry' now applies with modern cured paints. Indeed many supercar manufacturers are now applying hand crafted waxes at the end of the production (e.g. Aston Martin and Koenigsegg now use Zymol 100% as an end of line wax, others I'm sure may use Swissvax).

I think the confusion arises from the mixing of the terms 'polish' and 'wax' by the mass produced products. Strictly speaking 'polishing' is the abrasion of the outer surface (i.e the clear coat) to get rid of all the minor imperfections and scratches. The 'wax' then provides a surface protection coating and the long lasting shine. Hence with the best systems polishing and waxing are separate stages not one.

In addition the best waxes have a high degree of UV and rain carried contaminants protection. In very hot and sunny climates unprotected paint will fade quickly particularly on colours like red, white and yellow. The other issues is that most car wash products contain varying degrees of detergent which dissolves the wax. In hot, dust and sunny climates you need to wash and wax the car every few days if you use the normal 'Halfords' range. The effects of salt and acid rain in temperate climates has a similar effect.

So I would apply a good wax system from day one and keep it topped up every three months. Also I would only use the wax manufacturers approved wash to reduce or even negate the effects of the detergent in normal wash products.

As for the film.... try using a bit of Klay bar (detailers are familiar with this) to clean off the surface. Worked a treat on mine. Most of the best systems have a 'quick detail' type wax which will give a nice finish to the film to match the rest. Being softer the film naturally is less 'glossy' after a while than well prepared paint and is more difficult to return to a high sheen. Personally I would leave it off except on the real tough areas like the lower front of an Aero.

All IMHO of course

Phil, I have no doubt you are correct as Ben's take on it was very much in line with yours (back when he was focusing on detailing).

Interestingly, the supplying dealer of my Aero explained that because of the wood used in the frame of Morgans (inc the Aero 8), they are cooked at half the heat normal cars are subjected to during the paint process but twice as long. This was their explanation for why the paint didn't cure as quickly as that of other manufacturers.

I'm not sure if anyone can shed any light on this and confirm whether it is true?

Interesting ref the wood......

I know that a wax supplier has been talking to Morgan about OE fit and I dont think that topic came up... but I will check with my oracle too....

... but ... don't they shine the cars at the factory before delivery? I remember having seen pictures of such activities. If so... what product is MMC using?