Just a thought on the belt problem, rather than spending a lot of money on replacement belts from S & S or MMC, has anyone gone direct to a belt manufacturer with the problem and asked their advice, If you give them the details of the engines, the power output, the layout of the belt drive (a picture would be useful) and explain the problem, they may be able to assist in either a different belt or tell you why they are failing. When we were playing with supercharger drives many moons ago we found the actual manufacturers most helpful.I also have a feeling that Morgan bought these engines more on price than quality, because in my opininion there are better, more reliable engines out there if the companies would supply to Morgan.
My dealer told me to find an S&S mechanic to do the work on replacing the belt. The warranty is still in effect so it will be covered. I realize that I could probably do this myself but I desire to learn this at the knees of someone who really knows this motor. Found one locally and we talked about this issue. He opined that there are a number of aftermarket solutions out there already and we will look at those options when I get there belt in hand.
I find this amusing that there are 'aftermarket' parts for S&S kit which is a company that started life as an aftermarket supplier for H-D!
What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
I removed the cover,there wasnt alot of debri,but this was in the bottom,feels like gel/grease stuck all together..it might be the same type of material in the pic before my post
My local dealers tech guy said there wasnt a recommended change interval for the cambelt. Does seem very variable with some belts failing at 4k and other going over 10k. How much is a new belt? Labour to fit?. am I right to assume belt breakage doesnt damage the engine?. is it likely the 2014 models with the "mod" will mean the belt lasts longer?
2015 Morgan 4/4 (Wolf fettled) previously 2014 M3W MINI Cooper S and numerous BMC/BL relics.
-----My local dealers tech guy said there wasnt a recommended change interval for the cambelt. Does seem very variable with some belts failing at 4k and other going over 10k.
S&S have recomendded on one instance to a m3w owner that the belt should be changed at 3k. but that was without the spacer. Morgan have not indicated an exact mileage. i suspect it depends upon driving conditions mine failed at 7000 miles, just after 3 swiss mountain passes. others have failed at the times you mention.
----How much is a new belt?
a new belt is circa £140 inc vat from morgan
----Labour to fit?. for someone who has done it before: if they have locating pins, (already discussed in this thread) it is 40 minutes. if they dont it is 1 hour's work as the rockers and con rods have to be removed.
my opinion is that: This is a good example of a job which one should do oneself. -it is the type of job that sounds alot more complicated than it is and you could get ripped off. -You learn alot about the engine. -It is the type of job where silly mistakes could be easily done with disastrous consequences. (eg if the lining up dots on the belt and cam are not aligned correctly.) thus being a control freak i want to make sure that the job is not rushed. -you need to be able to do it yourself on the side of the road. doing it under calm conditions could help you out one day.
------ am I right to assume belt breakage doesn't damage the engine?
Yes (unless you are very unlucky. The concern is more about it failing when your life depends upon power being available, such as overtaking.)
here is why it does not wreck the engine. (i think!)
on a normal car, one cam shaft can operate multiple valves at different instances as per the engine cycle. the valves are directly mechanically linked. this means when the belt fails, this can lead to the engine spinning and the pistons moving with some of the valves open and some closed. it is simply impossible for them to all be closed. thus leading to severe damage. whereas, on the x wedge engine, each exhaust valve has its own cam and the intake valve share a cam. You can see this on the belt pictures people have uploaded. The three large sprockets are connected to the cams (through a weak interface, another story...). The smaller sprocket is directly and mechanically connected to the engine spinning and 'drives the belt'. (It is half the diameter because the cams turn at half the frequency of the engine in a four stroke system). A consequence of this smaller diameter is that the torque around this smaller sprocket where it interfaces with the belt needs to be twice that of the other sprockets. That is why it goes almost all the way round the smaller sprocket, guided by the pulleys so as to make the surface area as high as possible, otherwise each tooth would be under a very high force. perhaps it also explains why the belt keeps breaking.
The consequence of these cams and therefore valves being separate is that when the belt fails, they can move independently of each other to a safe position. They are not directly mechanically linked anymore. genius! i think.
--is it likely the 2014 models with the "mod" will mean the belt lasts longer?
i suppose you mean the spacer which increases the air round the belt by making the cover deeper.
S&s say that the point of the spacer is in order to increase circulation. Fair enough, but really? it this tested scientifically? the truth is that (in my opinion) the belt situation is not solved with this modification
Therefore you will still need a spare buffer cam belt and the locating pins and the imperial hex key set.
I see no scientifically based reason why the spacer system is effective at keeping the belt cooler. my thoughts are: -I am not a mechanical engineer, but when we are designing printed circuit boards heat transfer is at the top of the agenda. For me placing a gap of air between the heating belt and the atmosphere would not be a sensible idea as it acts as a vacuum barrier.
-Increased advection may help blow heat around, but is the outer cover at much of a temperature differential anyway? perhaps a high surface area mesh on the outer cover would be more effective.
... This might sound mad, but if the need is for more internal advection; what about super-gluing a fin onto the pulleys or inside a sprocket to act as a fan. (it would have to be carefully balanced like a new tyre) perhaps other people have an opinion on this admittedly mad idea?
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