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Drive on the Wild Side
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Plus 8s have grunt, a 3l roadster ips more flexible a 3.7 is wooh scared the cost is not much difference by the time you but 2l whatever ever and mod it and the you stress it out in IMSO. A 3.7 gives you both worlds but costs a bit more admittedly.

Last edited by AJSki2fly; 30/11/14 09:25 PM.

Adrian

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Back in the early seventies I found a 4/4 Series 3 abandoned in a garage. The Ford Classic 40 bhp engine had the same block as the 1500 and 1600 Kent engines.
A 1500 was bored to 1650, Cosworth head, Weber carbs, Piper cam, Janspeed exhaust on a 4.56 rear axle with the close ratio Bullet gearbox. It was very quick off the mark and uphill and was able to carry full revs in top gear. Not sure how fast as the speedo wavered between 70 and 120.
Final drive and gear ratios make an incredible difference to a car.
Gear ratios now are designed for cruising down motorways and fuel consumption. We don't have motorways down here and the old Goss Moor straight(''what will she do'' straight drive) is now a wild life sanctuary.


Titus

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When I drove the 4/4 75th Anniversary I was convinced it had a different final drive ratio. The tyres are taller and that would give it a slightly taller ratio if the dif was the same but it seemed to me to have better pickup from about 2,500 or 3,000 rpm than a standard Plus 4.

In any case it would seem that without going to the trouble of taking the gearbox out and changing gears the easiest thing to do would be to put in a slightly lower geared dif. Perhaps even an LSD.

Damn! I've just run out of


Peter

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Originally Posted By Gambalunga
Ha ha! Very nice, you got around the table posting problem by posting an image.

The problem with the forum software is that it does not allow posting of HTML. I'm sure that is to avoid security problems and inappropriate content.


Yes very creative!

Actually UBB.threads does support posting raw HTML but it has to be enabled by an admin, which it possibly hasn't been for the reasons given.

You can preserve your formatting by putting the text in a code quote, e.g.:


Code:
 Gear ratios:           1st.3.32
                        2nd.2.09
                        3rd.1.39
                        4th.1.00
                        5th.0.79

Ok, back to the subject.

~iw


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C
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C
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Note that the tyres used by cerealsurfer 185/55 R15 and 205/50 R15 allow an extra 5% less than the standard 195/60 R15.

The smartest solution at the origin is to adapt the gearbox and rear axle ratios to the motor and the car. But now it will be surely very expansive to implement these modifications. You can change the rear axle ratio, but in this case 1st an 2nd gear become to short.

I will not implement improvements on my mog, but for me it is the major concern I found on this car which is a sport car and unfortunaly with the speed limitation on normal road the 5th is quite unusable if I compare to the Ford PUMA where the final ratio is the same as the race mog.

What revs do you get at 60 mph on the last gear with the V6 roadster?


Last edited by CBY; 01/12/14 10:30 AM.

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I suppose that if you think about it a high final gear is good for cruising and fuel economy. If you need more power you change down a gear or two. On one of my favourite bits of twisties I use 3rd gear most of the time and on a mountain road second and third with occasional use of fourth. Fith gets used mainly on main roads and when "automatic speed control" is operational in the passenger seat.


Peter

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Well said Peter LOL

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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted By Gambalunga
On one of my favourite bits of twisties I use 3rd gear most of the time and on a mountain road second and third with occasional use of fourth. Fith gets used mainly on main roads and when "automatic speed control" is operational in the passenger seat.


Your experience matches mine exactly! rofl


Tim H.
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The easy way to lower the final drive is to reduce the diameter of the driven wheels. Done by tire size or wheel diameter. My 1979 runs on 14 inch diameter wheels. thumbs


.+8 Now gone for a 1800 4/4. Duratec in bright yellow.
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