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DaveW #241307 20/12/14 04:27 PM
Joined: Oct 2011
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Removal depends a bit on the car, but with car high in the air, radiator downwards is the way I did it. Slacken the inner wing brace and remove the box section at the bottom in front of the radiator to give you some room to play with.

Biggest flaw I hit was the fact that most radiator builders solder a traditional type rad (mix of copper and brass) with just enough solder to join things. Quite ok on most cars, but not with a Morgan where there is copious vibration. Woodstock's rad was finally rebuilt by Serc services (I knew an agent at the time) with a 200% uprated core and lots of solder at pipe joints. No failures afterwards.

Last edited by Martyn Culling; 20/12/14 08:16 PM. Reason: bit of clarification added

1930 Super Sports Aero 'The Elk'
frunni #241310 20/12/14 05:01 PM
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Ray Offline
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Mine came out from the underneath ,little bit of a tight fit but can be done. Car is 1979 +8.


.+8 Now gone for a 1800 4/4. Duratec in bright yellow.
Ray #241411 21/12/14 09:15 AM
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 381
C
CBY Offline
Learner Plates Off!
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C
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 381
On my 2005 PLUS 4 I have to take off the cowl, but a V6 is shorter than a 4 cyl and I guess you have more room, in this case it would no be necessary.

It dépends on the radiator. The critical part on my radiator was the lower S pipe which avoid the extracting.

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/193348/1


Last edited by CBY; 21/12/14 09:15 AM.

Regards
2005 PLUS 4
Joined: Aug 2008
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Talk Morgan Expert
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Originally Posted By Martyn Culling
Removal depends a bit on the car, but with car high in the air, radiator downwards is the way I did it. Slacken the inner wing brace and remove the box section at the bottom in front of the radiator to give you some room to play with.

Biggest flaw I hit was the fact that most radiator builders solder a traditional type rad (mix of copper and brass) with just enough solder to join things. Quite ok on most cars, but not with a Morgan where there is copious vibration. Woodstock's rad was finally rebuilt by Serc services (I knew an agent at the time) with a 200% uprated core and lots of solder at pipe joints. No failures afterwards.


I'll second that: I had mine rebuilt at a place in Hereford. The guy running it was really old school and understood exactly what I was after. It's been fine now for about five years.


1972 4/4 2 Seater
frunni #241775 23/12/14 12:21 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,415
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
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Posts: 1,415
All Morgan Radiators barring the Xflow engined 4/4's are removed from below.

You may have to (in no particular order) remove for this:

the steering drag link (steering box cars)
both track rods from the rack (steering rack cars)
the radiator support brackets
on air bag cars, the bumper brackets as these also support the radiator
on early air con cars, the air con matrix and associated pipe work
on a few random cars, I have actually dropped the steering rack out for extra clearance

The general premise being that if it looks like it might get in the way- take it off anyway...

Trust me...I've done a few, and made a few....

Simon @ Mulfab


Simon @ Sifab.co.uk

Sifabtemporary@gmail.com
frunni #245694 10/01/15 11:43 AM
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 82
T
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
T
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 82
Had same problem with mine . little leak,on top where smallest tube coolant leaves radiator morgan 2008 plus 4 ! Orderd one alu rad with mulfab 2008 on with brackets and silent blocks comes with tubes and everything .
3 hours of work later fitts perfectly .
By the way no cowl removed and once and for all the rad goes in from below
Does not fit and can not pas from above !on a plus 4 2008 onwards
Simply a bold of and bold on convert original fan fits to .
Live in belgium and was deliverde 3 days later
Thanks to peter from mulab
Engines runs same temp as before
Gr tom

frunni #272513 05/05/15 12:34 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 15
frunni Offline OP
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Hello again,
After the repair of the plastic angle piece my old radiator lost cooling fluid again on 2 places near the water tank.
I now decided to replace it by the product of local manufacturer. He builds copper and brass radiators.
I hope that this invest will fix the radiator problem for a long time. I add 2 pictures of the radiator.
Many greetings,
Frunni

Attached Images
K1.jpg (125.41 KB, 238 downloads)
k2.jpg (95.46 KB, 237 downloads)
Last edited by frunni; 05/05/15 12:39 PM.

V6 Roadster black 2009
frunni #272694 06/05/15 02:12 AM
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Looks like a quality product.


Richard
1976 4/4 4 Seater
frunni #272750 06/05/15 09:12 AM
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,552
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S
Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
S
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Solidly made aluminium or copper/ brass rads would be better for a Morgan than the plastic tank versions. These are less likely to stand up to the vibrations a Morgan goes through.
Yours looks a good one, the black paint will also aid heat control.
My car has a plain Al rad fitted as an upgrade by a previous owner..Morgan version. The only issue was the top mount weld cracking due to side strain from misalignment with the mounting point. No leaks,just cracked weld where the bracket met the top tank side.
JB Weld, an extra bracket over the top and adjustment of the mount hole (elongating it to line up with where it should be) has solved the strain problem and all is well so far. The rad now sits properly on the bobbin mounts with no side strain.
Have fun fitting yours, and do any adjustments needed! Remember...it is a hand built car!


Plus Four MY23 Furka Rouge
sospan #272794 06/05/15 01:24 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 15
frunni Offline OP
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Hello,
The radiator is already mounted.
During normal driving the temerature reaches 95°.
The manufacturer uses the old radiator as a template. So, the new one fits into the car without doing any changes.

Attached Images
DSC_0206.JPG (38.95 KB, 879 downloads)

V6 Roadster black 2009
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