Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Heat Protection Bandage

Early on last year one of the members was talking about removing the internal baffles, there are two in in each pipe. I'm wondering what the results were for this "experiment". If you look up the tailpipe you can see a disc with holes. I got out my handy dandy hole saw and removed the outer two, one in each pipe and then saw another behind the one I removed about 12 inches further in. My point is that however much the warping aides heat removal there has to be a lot of resistance caused by these small discs. I intend to remove the last two also. I'll let you know it this lessens the "glo" on the headers

Did you get an increased noise level after removing the discs?

I removed mine, they are now straight through.

The front disc which is in front of the silencer does not have any holes in it at all!!!

The noise is now 98db at 2/3rds rpm measured 1 meter from the tail pipe. As per MSA rules.

But the sound is deeper, harder and more edgy, like it means business. I certainly can't creep up on any one driving it.

Get a 44mm hole cutter and whip the front ones out as well. You won't be dissapointed.

The location of the rear disc is clear, but where is the front disc located?
Do I have to dismantle the exhaust to drill it off?

The two 'end' discs can be seen by looking up the tailpipe and are after the fatter 'silencer' section (if you can call it a silencer, which it isn't really). The front disc is actually a full-blocking baffle with perforations around it, so the gases have to pass through the perforations to get over the baffle. This is primarily how it silences and why it simply doesn't flow.

I fitted a set of the factory 'noisy' pipes which are made without the 2 rear discs, but still have the front baffles in place. So in effect I just spent money instead of drilling out the existing discs from my original pipes. The car is noisier for sure and a little more perky, as they flow marginally better. But a full straight-through will flow best, although the noise increase will be significant, as Mr Dab here confirms!

Which is why I intend to get me one of those Garage-56 kits when they're available, as the exhausts are indeed straight-through, but with proper absorption baffles which do not restrict flow but will do a much much better job of silencing the engine. So with the opened up air-filter too, you can have your cake and eat it - as well as getting back the lost power that we all read about in those prototypes and early customer cars.

I had a bizarre event when the car in front of me ran over a couple of sheets of the blue paper towelling that garages etc use. It flipped up onto the front of my M3W and immediately caught fire!

Fortunately it was trailing down the RHS so I grabbed it and threw it overboard then stopped pretty quick to clear everything from the front.

Maybe a wrap would have helped, or

Now that is an excellent reason to justify the wrapping!

I have burned/melted parts of the car cover sheet twice before i did the wrapping when I covered the car too early. The pipes were still too hot. I'm more careful now...

It is not just the pipes at the front that get hot. The rear length after the silencer can get pretty hot too. Not good if you are wearing short trousers: just ask Raphael

However it does look pretty cool when the headers are glowing:

The only downside of wrapped headers is that you CAN'T see the blood-red glow when they're hot - I kinda liked that! Following a slow tractor one dark night, about 2700rpm and not fast enough in 2nd gear to have much air cooling effect got the pipes a perfect crimson, like post-feed fangs on a friendly vampire....!

Alas no more, but they really shouldn't do that unless going flat-chuff in a hot dyno cell.