Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Water Pump 71 Plus 8

A leak has developed at the base of my water pump. My conclusion is that the pump should be replaced / rebuilt even if is only the gasket.

Morgan Spares (NY) can rebuild IF I send them core. Need to know if there are any other options.

Also need to know best way to proceed with removal. Is it best to remove radiator? I just put it back in but if that is best way to go, will remove...again.

Personally I have always opted for a new replacement to have the security of knowing it will last, however if Morgan (NY) can repair with new bearing and seals it should be fine if done properly and pump blades are still good. Might be cheaper too.

You can remove the water pump without removing the radiator.

The Moss and Rover 4 speed engines are mounted further forward than in a 5 speed Plus 8; however, the 'nose' of the water pump is not as long so clearance is ok.

You need to remove the water pump fan belt pulley and the alternator. Make sure that you drain the water out of the block using the drain taps or plugs on either side of the engine block.

The are a number of 1/4" UNC set screws around the water pump as well as some long 5/16" bolts that bolt the water pump and timing cover to the block. Beware as these screws and bolts can corrode into the block so go easy. Some of the bolts and screws are 'hidden' at the base of the pump and not easy to locate.

Rover used to spec a type of thread lubricant for the set srews and bolts. It is in the Haynes workshop manual for P6 Rovers and is a type of Bostick impact adhesive; it looks, feels and smells the same but possibly a tad more 'runny'. The purpose is to provide a barrier between the steel bolts and aluminium block thereby holding back corrosion. I use stainless and the approved thread lubricant. You'll find stainless bolt kits on eBay.

If you need any further info, just PM me.

Thanks for excellent comments. Have been draining from radiator.
Now I go forth into the valley of antifreeze.

And your spanners and screwdriver will comfort you!

The thread lubricant is a 3M product called ScotchClad 776 Fuel Resistant Coating and Adhesive. It's specified to lubricate the threads and prevent pick-up between the aluminium casting and steel bolts as well as acting as a corrosion barrier.

Good luck - your back will certainly ache by the end of the job!

Replacements are not necessarily the best option 'these days'.
Even back in the early nineties when I was playing with my MGBV8, some replacement pumps were below standard in the impellor department. Some impellors were smaller diameter than original, and had increased clearance between the impellor and body of the pump. Also the shape and alignment of the water channels were not exactly as they should be. I kept my original pump for years, just in case.

Got all bolts out of water pump except the long one on passenger side under hose bib.
This bolt comes out against the tube frame. I do not see how
to remove short of cutting it or raising motor which creates countless other problems.

Any suggestions???????? HELP.

Does the bolt line up on the middle, upper or lower centre of the crosshead frame?

It sounds as it you will need to raise or lower the engine but in my experience, not by much and you could well do it without unbolting anything at all or at most the nuts on the bottom of the rubber engine mountings. the holes in the timing cover are enlarged so will allow a bit of 'angle' to be applied to the bolt to help clearance.

A trolley jack with a flat piece of wood between the sump and jack will work.

If you still don't get enough clearance, you shouldn't need to go to the trouble of dismantling too much. Work out which angle of tilt will work best and simply loosen the engine mountings on that side and position the trolley jack appropriately to the side that needs lifting.

Hope this helps and good luck!

David
The bolt is hitting on the lower 1/4 of the crosshead frame.
I need to get the crosshead frame UP or the engine down to make the clearance. If I could get the crosshead frame UP by 1/2" it would clear.

I am not clear what relationship the time cover has to water pump???

By sump do you mean oil pan? Did not think pan could support engine.

I noticed that the passenger side fender is slightly lower than the drivers. This became clear when installing grill. The Badge bar bolt is lower on the psgr side. Inside I see the fenders are held on to a large plate. If the fenders have slotted holes I could adjust that. Makes me think there was something that changed the proper settings. It is clear that the tolerances are very limiting.

Thanks-Gary