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#268421 19/04/15 06:37 AM
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Peter J Offline OP
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Does anyone have the instructions for changing the pads on the AP Racing 6 Pot Callipers used on Aeros?

I need to know how the pad retaining pins are fitted... it looks as though they screw in from the inside of the calliper, not the outside, but it is hard to see.



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Peter,
do you know that side: Brakes
Regards


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Peter J Offline OP
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Many thanks indeed!

As I suspected, just the same as the callipers on my bikes. The schematic is wrong though, the pad retaining pins screw in from the inside face of the calliper body, not the outside face.

Past (expensive) experience suggests the steel pin will have corroded into the alloy calliper body so an impact drive is needed. I don't have one!

Over to Tim Ayrs at New Elms I think.

Or should I buy an impact driver...?



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Peter,
if the hose is long enough, I would remove the caliper without disconnecting the hose. Place it on the garage floor and after some time with WD40 give it a good hit with the impact driver.

Shopping for new tools is part of the fun.

Regards

P.S.: AP

Last edited by beltempo; 19/04/15 08:03 AM.

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What is it with people and WD40? Use proper penetrating release fluid such as PlusGas.


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Originally Posted By milligoon
What is it with people and WD40? Use proper penetrating release fluid such as PlusGas.


Absolutely. WD-40 is fit only for cleaning greasy dirt off stuff in my view. But in its defence it is very good at doing that!

And Peter, yes, of course you should buy an impact driver. What possible reason could there not be for buying additional tools?

For full man points, of course, you need a compressor, airline, and air impact gun. Totally unsuitable for use in this application, so you'll also need a small manual one as well. Remember that unless they are of very high quality, normal sockets can't withstand the hammering from an air impact gun, so you'll also need a full range of heavy duty sockets too.

And of course sometimes even a manual impact driver can be a bit OTT for getting a stubborn fastener turning. In these circumstances a set of T bar socket drivers is very handy as you can tap the end of the shaft with a lightish hammer whilst applying a turning torque to the bar.

With all these additional tools, you'd probably be best off considering a new roller cab stack. After all, there are always new tools that have to be acquired..

smile


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According to AP the pins are knock in pins therefore unless the design has changed from that in the drawing then there would not be a need for an impact wrench.

In saying that at less than 20,000 miles in a 2001 Turbo Impreza with a similar knock out pin design caliper, the pins took around 40 minutes to get out as the diameter had grown with hardish crud and it took a further 10 minutes of filing the pins to get them back to their original size. The design was changed shortly after that.

This design appears from an everyday maintenance point of view rather than a braking efficiency point of view well past their sell by date.

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The 2 pins knock out Peter nothing to unscrew


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I also agree with never use wd40 it's rubbish. I use Innotec Deblock. This is brilliant

http://www.innotecworld.com/products/greases-lubricants.php?productid=84


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Peter J Offline OP
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Originally Posted By Chunky4/4Racer
The 2 pins knock out Peter nothing to unscrew


I'd just come to that conclusion, thanks for confirming!

the thinnest pad is 5mm, new is 16.5mm so time for a change. There is no visible wear on the discs.


Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

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