Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Seat runners etc

This is the protruding nut and bolt-end which presses into the floor:


It could be ground down to half thickness, or replaced with a countersunk allen headed bolt. But being of short stature, I just fitted some spacers with a rebate for this protrusion.







These spacers were standard fit in 2005 (at least my Roadster came with them), but were removed when the dash was changed because the steering column lowered at that time (at its highest point) because the dash was deeper.

Thanks Dave (and Peter J too)

It seems another example of the "hand made car" that could have been made a little better, to say the least.

Yes mine are stiff. Another job to get round to

Stiff Runners seem endemic....!!

I don't have the wooden plinths to worry about, just the metalwork.

Thanks for the hints everyone. It seems to be another case of why did they do it this way!

Had a play knocking up some of these today.

Few trips back and forth to screwfix for bolts as my calculations the first time were way off compared to none battened seat runners.

Been playing with cheap-ish pine till I come up with a size that suits. (then I'll be asking peter for some more of his glazing offcuts )

Currently have 20mm rear to 45mm front slope.

I have only done the drivers side so far but what a revelation! I appear to have made more leg room?

The main purpose was to make the seat adjustable (due to the nut bending the rail mine took considerable effort) and to stop myself and the good boss lady from slipping off the seats continually.

I have the passenger side battens made up already and may fit them tomorrow as I will have to take mog out of garage as ours is a tiny single car one.

Quite a simple little addition, but makes quite a difference!

With this in place I can simply rest my left leg on the clutch pedal with no real force and my leg does not rest so much against the gear tunnel! I can now address the wear on the shaft tunnel from the seatbelt buckle as it no longer rubs on the tunnel leather.

I wonder if I could fabricate a tilt adjustable runner base? replacing the wooden battens with a steel frame the seat sits on, I may have to peruse ebay over a bottle of red

I took the wooden spacer out from my driver's side seat but inserted smaller spacers to leave just enough clearance for that nut.
A small lowering only but enough. The only problem is care is needed when sliding the seat forward as my fingers hit the cross member cover.
I now have a small strap to lift the release bar and save my fingers.
The seat does not go fully back as the end of the wheelarch stops it but only by less than an inch so no issue there as I rarely need to move the seat.

Fitted the passenger side today 45 minutes tops.

Now to order some stainless bolts to replace the zinc plated ones I used now I have the sizes I may even get some stainless dome capped nuts to make the under side tidier.

I used a socket head stainless on the rear of the mount when I did mine.
I found it hard to get a spanner on the bolt head due to space.
I used a small stillsen type spanner to remove the original as it fitted the runner nicely and held itself in place..
The socket head made tightening the new bolt easier.

Just pushed old rear bolts out from underneath and dropped new ones in and runner holds on the flats not needing anything topside.